2008 Atomik Blitz 250 review

[thump*140]

^^^Which model Kudapro??
The Kuda, or the Blitz??
The Blitz runs 06-09 yamaha YZF250-450 plastics.. The Kuda Pro appears to run 06 Honda CRF450 plastics... There are also other Mikilon M96 versions that run KXF plastics, but most of them run either YZF or CRF plastics...

Judging by your avatar pics, 06 CRF plastics are teh ones you want, and consequently, graphics kits for that model bike will also fit...

 

[dirbatua]

hey thump, you seen any bash plates or radiator supports that would bolt onto the blitz, need to get both for mine before i break something

 

[Atomikkuda]

Hey thump your a legend thanks heaps mate. Yes it's a Kuda Pro.

 

[VEE8SS]

Well finally getting around to putting my mikilon (now aka YZF ha ha) I have powdercoated the frame in a flat gloss black and got my mate to 2-pac and clear the swing arm and linkages in a very brite silver. went and replaced ever single bolt at the local bolt shop with hi-tensile plated boltes where possible and nyloc or spring washers and nuts. I have all the frame and suspension together except the front end. I also picked up half of my new blue YZF plastics for it. and have molunted the rear guard and i must say i much prefer the look. if they painted them well from the factory they would look a million bucks.

I am sort opf half and half when it coems to what to do next. I had a OKO 26mm here and then sold it to my mate for his pitbike while i was still procrastinating about putting the thing back together. But my other mate has offered me his YZ250 2-banger 2003 model for 2K so not sure what to do or if that is a good price or not???

Anyway i will gte some pics up soon but am wondering if there is any way i can make the front forks a bit softer??? as i mainly do trail riding and it tends to throw me around a fair bit when trying to keep up with my mates. I saw that thump mentioned using 5w oil on the first page??? did this make a noticeable difference??? thanks everyone

 

[DvDRip]

dude get the 2banger, would be a millon times better than what you've got and you could sell the s#itter for nearly a grand

 

[VEE8SS]

yeah i was thinking that but i've put so much time and effort into the mikilon/blitz now already! was thinking of getting it anyway

 

[DvDRip]

you could have spent a year building the bike but at the chance of replacing it with 03yz250 so cheap there should be no doubt in your mind what you need to do

 

[dirbatua]

yea for 2k you should buy it, no matter what you do to the blitz the YZ250 will be faster, more reliable and easier to maneuver compared to blitz.

Only downside is genuine Yamaha parts are more expensive then blitz parts

 

[VEE8SS]

Yeah, i know. problem is the money but i will see how i go with it still waiting on pics of it to se what kind of condition it's in.

 

[synergy17]

ok finally found some time for the blitz again, fitted the front forks from the yzf BUT.. a few problems have poped up trying to fit the blitz rim to the yzf forks. to fit the blitz caliper to the yzf fork i had to remove the black bracket off the calliper that is obviously used to change the mounting points so it fits on the blitz fork. this makes the the calliper move position as the bracket was a 1/4in thick, now i hav the problem of the calliper being around 3/8in overall away from sliding over the disc, of course the easy fix would be just to make spacers up to move the calliper back towards the hub to suit.

however with fitting the axle.. does anyone that has done this mod or owns a yzf know the position the head of the axle sits?? is the shoulder of the head of the axle, where it steps down supose to be flush with the inside of the fork leg or is the outside of the axle supose to be flush with the oustside of the fork leg?? reason for asking is the axle i got (advertised to fit the yzf 426 01 model) seems to have the head of the axle ( allen key end) flush with the outside of the fork and i have about 1/4 -3/8in of the head protruding on the inside of the fork towards the hub. to me it seems odd coz i would rather have the solid part of the head of the axle inside the fork leg clamp so i know it wont snap rather than the hollow allen key end clamped inside the fork leg.

 

[thump*140]

lol yeah the YZF axle traps a few people... there's no science to it, all you need to do is jack the front end clear of the ground, leave the pinch bolts on the "allen-key" side of the axle loose, push the axle through the wheel etc, and tighten the axle nut all the way up. Take the bike off the stand, bounce the front end up and down, and check to see if the forks are compressing and rebounding freely. (shows whether or not the forks are aligned properly, or whether they have been "pulled in" at the bottom.. )
The stepped shoulder on the axle should be hard up against the axle spacer, and the stepped shoulder will be well clear of the fork leg... ie, it wont be flush with the fork leg. With the fork legs aligned vertically on my Blitz, and the spacers in the correct spot etc etc, the allen key end of the axle sits about 4mm INSIDE the outer edge of the fork leg... if i ever stop working and get to go home, i'll try and get a pic up of it..
i wouldnt be too worried about snapping the YZF axles with the way they mount... i've flat landed a few 80 footers and a couple of 100ft dirt jumps on both the 400 and the 450, and both are still straight as a die...
bit odd that the brake rotor and caliper didnt line up... if memory serves when i dummied all mine up, the caliper lined up fine, as they run the same axle, rotor and caliper offset as the YZF's... I dont think you can use the Blitz caliper and wheel on the YZF forks, as the Blitz disc rotor is of far bigger diameter than the YZF rotor... need the black caliper mount to enable the caliper to "reach" around the Blitz rotor..

 

[synergy17]

well ok then.. strange but if thats the way the axle goes then im happy with that, would rather a bit more poking out from the fork leg for ease of mind but then if flat landanding at 100ft dont break it then its sure to last a life time on a blitz.
i see wat u mean about needing the black bracket on the calliper, without it, it pulls the calliper forward to much and wont wrap around the disc. but with rates going up and the pocket getting empty i will make some sort of bracket up and spacers to fit the blitz calliper to the yzf fork.

 

[thump*140]

bit of an update... will post pics tomorrow...
Have finally managed to wedge the final piece of the puzzle into the bike, namely the rear shock...
used a 97 Suzook RMX250 rear shock... slightly shorter, and has to mounted in the frame wrong way round, with custom mounts used, after grinding the stock upper shock mounts out of the frame...
VERY squeezy proposition, and also requires a custom intake manifold to be made... but that's tomorrows job...
Seems pretty good so far, bouncing it around in the shed hasnt produced any knocks, clunks or bangs that it shouldnt have, and frame geometry has remained the same...
once i've got a bit more in the way of funds, the shock will go into HOEY's to be rebuilt, and hopefully i'll have a pretty sweet handling bike...
(shock cost me $45 from ebay, so the price of the bike is still around the 2k mark... and still a better performer than an XR or TTR 250... )

 

[thump*140]

BlitzKrieg + 30MM OKO + RMX250 shock =

Ok so heres the pics of the custom manifold, 30mm OKO fitment, and the new shock mount welded in for the RMX rear shock... Excuse the shock mounts "tidiness", still got a bit of work to do to it with the grinder and spray can to clean it up...
Stock manifold on the right, custom one in the process of welding on the left.

Custom manifold finished and fitted

OKO 30MM fitted in bike... bit more room than there used to be...

New shock mount

RMX shock fitted to bike. VERY VERY SQUEEZY, but it fits... also feels a hell of a lot better than the ****ty stock Atomik boinger....

 

[thump*140]

and finally a quick vid of the Blitz bouncing off the limiter with the OKO... revs a bit quicker than your standard Gen III loncin twofiddy...

 

[dirbatua]

nice thump*, hope the 30mm works better for you, i cbf changing the carby again on mine myself

Stupid internet for some reason won't let me access this site anymore and i have to route it through a proxy.

Ordered my Honda CRF 04 Clutch Lever and bracket (since the lever is over 1cm thick and hopefully wont break it as much) from Peter Stevens on boxing day with my voucher i got for Christmas and then got my brothers discount as well .

Had to order it from Honda though so haven't gotten it yet.

Went riding yesterday (which was a stupid thing to do in that heat) down at the frankston MX track, the sand on the track was superheated and had to stop every 2 laps for a break and water.

Came off badly and snapped my sticky taped clutch and snapped the brake lever and bent the gear lever and sand got inside the 1/4 throttle mechanism and jammed the throttle open which caused another accident when i started it again and i took off full throttle over a and crashed again .

gonna have to take the 1/4 apart and clean it and maybe silicon part of it to stop the sand and dirt getting in.

But the bike was moving round the track alot better then it used to, finally got the tune close to perfect now

 

[dacoffee]

buy a flap disc for grinder and that come up a treat those welds

 

[VEE8SS]

love the manifold adaptor! I am having issues trying to work out how to get the standard throttle cable in my 26mm...... I counld not compress the spring enough to get enough cable through to set the end n the plastic slide! so i trimmed about 15-20mm off the cable sheeth and now i have it all together but the sheilth is not long enough now???? have i gone about this the wrong way??? (obviously!) or am i missing something simple here. Also would love a pic of how your yamaha shrouds sit against the raditors from the front as I have fitted mine up and it seems like they are a good 20-30mm waya from where i can see the yamaha radiators must sit??? did you just make up a new support bracket for the lower shroud mount???? thanks.

 

[DvDRip]

I jsut trimmed my cable housing, the idea is to just cut off little bits at a time till you get the perfect length, just get a new cable and do it again, I also use a bit of fuel hose to seal the cable to carby connector and keep it in place

 

[thump*140]

vee8ss yeah i had issues with the lower radiator shroud mounts as well... i just pulled mine in, but they arent ideal, and mine kinda *snapped* when i dropped the bike after washing it... oops... lol..
they also dont fit real well around the tank/seat junction, but meh, they look a hell of a lot better than the stock atomik plastics... ha ha...
and yes dacoffee, still got a bit of tidying up, and painting to do on the welds and bits of frame that i had to cut away to fit the shock in... still, i got it to fit, that was the main aim to begin with, now i'll pull the shock back out, have that rebuilt and revalved, and do the painting then.