Atomik Reign, Lifan 150, Big Foot questions

[user 21036]

Will I have to split the cases to do that?

 

[my67xr]

nah, and you should be able to do it on the bike still too

just make sure the stator plate is off, so you can clean up and swarf where the tap cuts the new threads.


edit. i have some Lifan 150 spare's here i'd sell cheap if you need them, case, barrel, head, etc

 

[user 21036]

I actually took the engine off the bike already, hopefully will make it a bit easier...

I wanted to take a look at piston and cylinder, I got the head off fine, But the barrel won't seem to budge.


I've taken out all the bolts I can see, there's two holding it on right? The bolt in the side, and the other one with the phillips head in it?

 

[my67xr]

Yeah, the one on the side/middle is for the timing chain roller, the one that point's back into the case/gearbox holds it together.
It might just be a bit tight, gasket sticking ?
could try putting a block of wood towards the head end of the cylinder and give it a couple of taps with a hammer, not too hard.

 

[user 21036]

Yeah I took out both those bolts, and with a mallet gave it a few taps side to side, and used to hand to lever the barrel.. Can't even budge it a couple of mm, doesn't look like it's moving at all

The 4 big studs that hold the head on, 3 of them are a little loose, with a bit of side to side movement, but the top left one is pretty firm, could this be what's stuck and not causing it to come off?

I almost want to put it in a vice and just pull haha

 

[user 21036]

Well I did get the barrell off, The 4 long studs were really tight, Bit of rust and dirt stuck in there...

The barrell and piston are scored to crap, probably why I get hardly any compression (Could pretty much start it with my arm) Then the tensioner is stripped as well, and it's just all worn out... wasn't taken care of by previous owner.


Trying to figure out if I should just bin the whole bike or put a Lifan 125 in it, Would the 125 be a straight swap, will the mounts line up, old exhaust still fit on?
I'm guessing i'd have to get a smaller carb? I think the 150 has a 30mm on it


Do you think it's worth it, or should I just bin it all?

 

[my67xr]

A Lifan 125 will go in easy enough, same exhaust etc (costs $230ono inc delivery), but will need a new clutch cable and a 22/26mm Mikuni copy and filter to suit.

 

[user 21036]

Yeah the lifan 125 would be what i'm going with if I go with it, good that exhaust will fit though.
I'll toss up both the options and see what I decide on doing,

Could the engine or roller be sold? Or would it be more of a tip job?

 

[my67xr]

yeah you could sell the roller, might get around $200-$250 ?
i've pm'd you another option too.

 

[user 21036]

Hi Craig,

Stupidly when taking the head and barrell off, I wasn't paying enough attention to see where the locating dowels go back in... I have the flanged one with the o-ring, And 2 more I think.... Do you know where these go?

 

[my67xr]

Looking at the front of the engine with the gearbox at the back
the Dowels sit in the right hand side on the studs

and from the top of the cylinder there are 2x diagonal, top left and bottom right
and the o ring and flanged dowel sits in the bottom left on the top of the cylinder

 

[user 21036]

Thanks so much, I think i'll most likely get the 125, as this is an old worn out motor....

Gearbox has seen better days, valves were way way way off from previous owner, and it looks like they put heaps of hours on it....


If I did want to get this one running, would it be possible just to get the cylinder honed? I'll try and get a pic of the damages




Do the valves look normal in this picture? Is that carbon build up normal?

 

[my67xr]

the cylinder should be fine with a light hone, you can get a new piston with rings etc for about $35 off ebay.
the carbon looks like it's been run with a mesh air filter, or been run with a dirty foam filter for a long time.

 

[user 21036]

the cylinder should be fine with a light hone, you can get a new piston with rings etc for about $35 off ebay.
the carbon looks like it's been run with a mesh air filter, or been run with a dirty foam filter for a long time.

That's good news then, I'll ask Dad's moto guy if he could hone it for us.... If not, where could I get it done?

Any ways to clean the carbon off?

 

[my67xr]

Brake/Carby cleaner and some steel wool will clean the carbon off pretty easy.
Even soak it in WD40/CRC for a couple of hours first to soften it up.

Supercheap sell a Small Engine Hone for about $24
Check out some of the small engine honing videos on Youtube too for some tips.

 

[user 21036]

Brake/Carby cleaner and some steel wool will clean the carbon off pretty easy.
Even soak it in WD40/CRC for a couple of hours first to soften it up.

Supercheap sell a Small Engine Hone for about $24
Check out some of the small engine honing videos on Youtube too for some tips.

Do you think I should try to helicoil the chain tensioner threads, or just buy your case?

 

[my67xr]

leave me with that question for a bit, i might know a cheaper way to fix yours

 

[my67xr]

i was thinking about your stripped thread, another way around it would be to get another longer bolt from a Fastener shop.
The timing chain tensioner bolt uses a Flanged head M14 x1.5 pitch bolt,
if you can get one that has a 40mm long thread, then grind the end of the thread down for the spring to seat onto like the original
Then you will need to trim maybe 20mm off the tensioner spring, and flatten/twist the end so it sits nice onto the stub of your new bolt too

Another option is to find some Thread repair inserts, they are 1/3 of the price of Helicoils
Champion make them, and a pack of 2 or 3 is about $10-$15
To fit them you drill out the hole oversize, (they tell you what to drill it to), then simply fit the insert to the supplied bolt and screw it in.
Only problem might be finding a big enough drill bit to drill out the old threads.

here is a Thread i made showing how to use them- How To/DIY Repair Damaged/Stripped/Cross-threaded bolt threads

 

[user 21036]

i was thinking about your stripped thread, another way around it would be to get another longer bolt from a Fastener shop.
The timing chain tensioner bolt uses a Flanged head M14 x1.5 pitch bolt,
if you can get one that has a 40mm long thread, then grind the end of the thread down for the spring to seat onto like the original
Then you will need to trim maybe 20mm off the tensioner spring, and flatten/twist the end so it sits nice onto the stub of your new bolt too[/URL]

Do you think this will work, because the threads a bit further down the hole seem to be fine? And the longer bolt should thread in fine?

 

[my67xr]

yeah, it could catch a little starting it off, but should go in fine, don't over tighten it either, just enough so it nips up on the alloy washer.
it'll be the cheapest way out of it.