Lifan 150 diffs and pics

[numroe]

the 150cc lifan rotor is better then stock rotors and IRK's but it lacks having enuf adavance to start nicely and give u the adavance at top rev's. ... On there other hand Daytona rotors are digital and have a choice of 4 maps able to be use. all 4 of these maps are retarded enuf on start up making for easy start and at high rpm are adavance enuf for hard reving.

My 150 requires far too much effort to start. As in avoiding kick back, and just getting it to start when cold. It'd be nice to have easier starting and yet keep some of the "over rev" power to avoid a shift or already in 4th. So the Daytona rotor sounds appealing. So, how much $ ??

 

[themountain]

-we won the 2008 minimotard title, (3 round comp- won it in the first 2 rounds.......... 3rd one havnt been held yet)
- Have the only 2 daytona DOHC in australia
- first ppls to get 28/24 mm valves on an daytona 125cc motor
- made pitbikes with twin disk brakes (havnt seen another yet)
- made countless racing motors for race teams and customers

he was talking to YOU and not talking about what your old man is doing ...if you come on strong here, spreading the knowledge you gathered on PM or google , you have to get your facts straight ,Boy!!

anyway ...the daytona and the lifan ignition are exactly the same , besides the daytona print on the groundplate ...even the availability of four maps is there on the lifans , but nobody wants to tinker around with it , because they have no advance to the standard setting

..talking about DIGITAL ...well every CDI is that in some kind of way

 

[corey58]

mountain man wat about the 11 degrees adavance difference?? is that jst in our heads aswell??

and when i was talking about the 4 maps that refering to the 4 step up in the single rev range (eg it 18-2000rpm 25-4000rpm 34-5000rpm 40-7000rpm <-- they are ramdon numbers)

but if u used google you would of know this.

but i must stay it is good not everybody thinks the same or we all be doin the same times, wouldnt we.

 

[kaneo]

My 150 requires far too much effort to start. As in avoiding kick back, and just getting it to start when cold. It'd be nice to have easier starting and yet keep some of the "over rev" power to avoid a shift or already in 4th. So the Daytona rotor sounds appealing. So, how much $ ??

Mine is a sinch to start, one twist of the throttle to get a squirt from the accelerator pump from my pumper carby, one kick and away it goes. No choke, cold or hot. Ive advanced the timing 2 degrees also. I run my carby a touch fat too because its so dam cold down here.

 

[numroe]

Mine is a sinch to start, one twist of the throttle to get a squirt from the accelerator pump from my pumper carby, one kick and away it goes. No choke, cold or hot. Ive advanced the timing 2 degrees also. I run my carby a touch fat too because its so dam cold down here.

Interesting. My jetting is just slightly rich all the way thru as well. But I change the main jet as reqd (leaner if real warm and/or humid). For starting I get best results with 1/4 throttle open and holding it there. I have to click up/open the OKO "pseudo choke" when cold, but it seems a fine line on my engine/carb between not enough fuel and flooding it. No pump of course on my carb. Once flooded it can take a while to clear it. Once warmed up, starting is relatively easy as long as TDC and 1/4 throttle are found before a positive kick. Not sure of the long term solution. Not keen to invest in a diff carb since I like how my engine runs (after starting). A smarter ignition would be nice. But how much $, and again I'm real happy with how it runs - once warmed up and running. Bump starting is effectively impossible, even in 4th, due to the cylinder compression.

 

[daimojay]

yeah nah, corey pay some more people to do your work.

As for having the only 2 DOHC's, doesnt make u any better a mechanic. If your spelling and general attitude is anything to go off you sound like a kid that gets his bike build for him to race.


when i see that YOU have build a honda nice cranked 66.5mm stroked gpx, or found bearings to put the same crank in a YX150/160, or rod swap a atc110 rod to fit a forged xr piston in your motor come back to me and tell me YOU know what your talking about. google warrior.


on topic :- so the general consensis seems to be that the lifan has a broader band of power over the yx150's? if only i rode my YX178 when it was a 150 as all i can say is that with how it is now, you wouldnt need much more bottom


maybe try retro fitting some **** into places its not meant to and offer 'help' and more people would like you, instead of being argumentitive for sake of being a rich kid

 

[themountain]

mountain man wat about the 11 degrees adavance difference?? is that jst in our heads aswell??
and when i was talking about the 4 maps that refering to the 4 step up in the single rev range (eg it 18-2000rpm 25-4000rpm 34-5000rpm 40-7000rpm <-- they are ramdon numbers)
but if u used google you would of know this.
but i must stay it is good not everybody thinks the same or we all be doin the same times, wouldnt we.

blablabla...first of: the ignition never was made for pitbikes in the first place, thats the reason you can run lights with them , second the different maps are there for restriction or model reason , because the ignition was mend primary to be in streetlegal scooter and comuters...so don't try to convince me you have a clue about things ,posting up numbers from the papers which come with the Daytona!

 

[numroe]

Dumped the oil out of my Lifan 150 today. Fully warmed up. Not a large amount of metal in my filter or on the magnet. Hooray! I really should have an hour meter, but dont. So this is my 5th drain. Or 6th if counting the run-in batch of good oil. I usually do about 2 or 3 hrs after each oil change. Those hrs are mostly full throttle or full brakes, but sometimes cruising. My brake pads are just about gone, and I get about 35 minutes run time out of 3 liters of fuel. Rich jetting I suppose but hey - it runs great! So I think the Lifan 150 is holding up ok now. Still, finger crossed! To put this topic another way: If it blows up, I'll get another one.

 

[numroe]

Hey, I use that monkey butt powder. Mainly when I ride my 450 because it has a real firm seat on it. Good stuff! It's just talc I think. But I blast it down my crack and think I'm invincible. When I am contemplating a suspension g-out approaching a corner, I know my back sometimes feels the pain, but not my arse.

 

[Cactus Jack]

Hey, I use that monkey butt powder. Mainly when I ride my 450 because it has a real firm seat on it. Good stuff! It's just talc I think. But I blast it down my crack and think I'm invincible. When I am contemplating a suspension g-out approaching a corner, I know my back sometimes feels the pain, but not my arse.

Maybe there's a product called Date Toner cream and it might be far superior since it'd be made in Japan .......

 

[daimojay]

doit toner the japanese version made for daytona riders?

 

[numroe]

... like any other pesant on this site that has a china and no clue whats going on.

Yeah, that'd be me.

But seriously, come on fellas. Use PM to abuse each other. Don't post here.

Lifan 150 ignition: Yesterday I tried retarding the ignition. It did start easier, but ran noticeably worse. For sure it did not rev out as nicely under load, but worse was that is was no where near as crisp in response to initial throttle turn coming out of corners. So I rotated the stator plate back (to the middle position). Did not bother trying more advance than the mid position, since cold starting is a problem at times, but otherwise it runs great.

 

[themountain]

150 ignition: Yesterday I tried retarding the ignition. It did start easier, but ran noticeably worse. For sure it did not rev out as nicely under load, but worse was that is was no where near as crisp in response to initial throttle turn coming out of corners.

see...thats exactly I was talking about ...this option is pretty much useless...we tried eeeeverything but the standard setup is allaround the best

..and @ mxb: Where are you coming from???Did you ever put a constructive post over here?? Next time please ignore my posts and STFU!!

 

[daimojay]

lol im sure moutain has build more motors than your bike has mods mxb, maybe he just doesnt have to try and brag about it


yeah i found the same thing on my YX175, the timing is either too advanced to start easy, or not advanced enough to make power :S

id love to wire up a efi system to one just for ***** and giggles, but 12v might be a problem (irk)

 

[wogtaz ryder]

i want one.! anyone reckon these 150's will get any cheaper or they already reached there price? i dont no what to get thinking the yx coz its got way more mods to do to it , am i right? i want the 165 kit on the yx that will be MEAn , heard the lifan ***** all over it stock but nothing much u can do to it?

Stop bitching.

 

[numroe]

YX vs Lifan 150: I've not ridden with a YX anything. But I've heard they are top end RPM power biased and I've ridden enough bikes over the years to have an idea on it.

Generally speaking, power output needs is all relative! Relative to: target track or terrain, track/terrain conditions (dry/mud/sand etc), bike handling/suspension, and of course rider skills.

With a pitbike with 14" wheels or smaller, and always questionable handling ability at high speeds, I think if you are riding on any typical off road terrain or typical dirt (MX) track, then an engine with more usable wide spread torque (and no sudden hit) is going to be a lot faster and a lot more fun. Even if you ride on BMX style tracks, an engine with more wide spread torque is going to be more fun.

Keep in mind that even the YX gear ratios have a useless/granny 1st gear. So we only have 3 usable gears. plus those these have wide ratio difference. So unless you want to change sprockets for every riding location or even a change of your private track layout, then this also means you want a wide spread of torque from your engine!

In my Lifan 150 (as mentioned earlier in this thread), I put the Akunar A1 cam (plus their valves and springs). These are very simple mods. Did it work? Well I HAD to put in 2 stiffer clutch springs because of the extra torque. It's a lot more fun. So I'd say yes times 2.

Riding my pitbike is a LOT of fun. For the cost, the little engine blows me away and makes me laugh inside my helmet. My big bike is very responsive and powerful, but my pitbike offers a great thrill of its own kind. The engine is always "there" for me. eg. I hardly ever stress my inside knee putting my foot down. I can move f/aft on the seat and use the throttle and ride out of most situations. Good tyres help. As does picking a sane speed for a corner. The bottom line to this engine, is that on most tracks and terrain, it's output far exceeds the ability of my chassis+suspension and me. I'm pretty anal about my suspension (dampers and springs), steering rake, rear sag and so on, so my SR is not a handling pig in pitbike terms, but the engine is more than enough to push things.

If however you ride on sand, then get all the top end HP you can get.

 

[kaneo]

spot on. what he said ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^.

 

[numroe]

hey kaneo, I notice you have a 39T rear sprocket on your Lifan 150. I assume you have the stock 15T front. To put the A1 cam into perspective for you, keep in mind that I have 16:39 sprocket gearing, but I can ride the slowest hair pin 180 deg, loamy, grippy rut turns in 2nd gear, and just use a tiny fan of the clutch or no clutch at all, and my engine is on the boil with the rear wheel digging and ripping it up before the exit. That's a good bottom end. Plus the top end is ample for dirt riding. See what I mean by fun. So cheap too.

It's interesting riding against moderately healthy full sized MX and enduro bikes. In the tight stuff they usually give up because they can never flick left/right quick enough. But in the open stuff and even long 100m straights I can keep up surprisingly well. It's not rider difference since we can swap machines and the same thing happens. It's more a question of traction and rear shock action. What makes it funny is that I can do it with 3 gears (234) while they use 4 or 5 in the same straight.

 

[Panda_ET]

Very good view on the Lifan 150 numroe. My brother will be upgrading his engine soon and would prefer a 150 so its good to get a REAL perspective other than " its wikid its hell fast" or " its ****"

 

[kaneo]

hey kaneo, I notice you have a 39T rear sprocket on your Lifan 150. I assume you have the stock 15T front. To put the A1 cam into perspective for you, keep in mind that I have 16:39 sprocket gearing, but I can ride the slowest hair pin 180 deg, loamy, grippy rut turns in 2nd gear, and just use a tiny fan of the clutch or no clutch at all, and my engine is on the boil with the rear wheel digging and ripping it up before the exit. That's a good bottom end. Plus the top end is ample for dirt riding. See what I mean by fun. So cheap too.

It's interesting riding against moderately healthy full sized MX and enduro bikes. In the tight stuff they usually give up because they can never flick left/right quick enough. But in the open stuff and even long 100m straights I can keep up surprisingly well. It's not rider difference since we can swap machines and the same thing happens. It's more a question of traction and rear shock action. What makes it funny is that I can do it with 3 gears (234) while they use 4 or 5 in the same straight.

Na i run a 16 39 on bigger tracks and 16 41 on the tight stuff. I only weigh 67kg so it will pull the tall 39 gearing to a stupid fast top speed with me on it anyway.My fat mates have trouble with this gear though. On my mates moto track i find i only need to get out of second on a few straights with the 39 and if you hit the corners pinned there is no need for clutch fanning. The stock 15 was too low for my liking.