Psto.. my new/second hand Lxr clone

[zwebx]

I will email akunar and see what his prices are, I will get a qoute on bbk and ss valves.


I dont want to go bigger in the valves zac, just get a exhaust port polish and the casting marks taken out, and some new stock sized ss valves installed. I dont have a valve spring compressor and I dont like my chances of getting the collets back in without one, and its damn fiddly trying to get in the exhaust port to sand the casting marks out. With the taki rollers, whats involved to change them over? I imagine they would be dearer than the 80 odd bucks for tb alloy rollers..

"Is the long skirt piston useable on the zongers, or do I have no choice but to use the short skirt and lose some piston life.."
Short skirt piston only came out on the 1st batch of pistons then was quickly changed to a longer type piston because too many people had them go crooked. for little gains.

Valve collets are easy as piss mate, a trial and error sort of thing, use a spark plug socket and a rag over the top of the valve.. give it a whack and they will come out.. if it gets jammed keep the rag over it and hit it again..
When installing out the collets in the retainer and double the rag over then try it.. its a trial and error thing but its easy and works well especially once you have the hang of it

To remove the rockers. Step one. remove cam gear.. behind that there are two 8mm bolts (usually screws i changed them) and remove them, grab a old long bolt put that in the rocker shaft and **** it a bit and pull the shaft out.. then pull the rockers off..

Be sure to put the rocker shafts back in the arms because the wear patterns will be different.

If i was to rebuild that motor replace the oil pump because that will have some dings in it from round one of vcm i went to.
High volume looks to be a good mod.

Just be sure to put a rag over the valve retainers because they like to go flying or bounce around and it is very annoying.

 

[my67xr]

Make sure when you are releasing the collets that you have a rag under the valve head, between the valve and your bench. otherwise you could bend your valves


I do the collets/retainers using some angled end medium sized pointy nosed pliers a bit like these

i just stick them in above the retainers, open them a little, then push down so the tips of them hit the inside of the head
then the bent section pushes on the retainers and releases the collets
use a small magnetic pick up tool to get them out
You can refit them the same way, no magnet needed .


check out what length collets are in the retainers, it should have the shorter ones.
they are fitted so there is less chance of them hitting the stem seals and damaging the seals.

i will see if i can find a couple of links for you retainers, collets, springs and valves

 

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

"Is the long skirt piston useable on the zongers, or do I have no choice but to use the short skirt and lose some piston life.."
Short skirt piston only came out on the 1st batch of pistons then was quickly changed to a longer type piston because too many people had them go crooked. for little gains.

Valve collets are easy as piss mate, a trial and error sort of thing, use a spark plug socket and a rag over the top of the valve.. give it a whack and they will come out.. if it gets jammed keep the rag over it and hit it again..
When installing out the collets in the retainer and double the rag over then try it.. its a trial and error thing but its easy and works well especially once you have the hang of it

To remove the rockers. Step one. remove cam gear.. behind that there are two 8mm bolts (usually screws i changed them) and remove them, grab a old long bolt put that in the rocker shaft and **** it a bit and pull the shaft out.. then pull the rockers off..

Be sure to put the rocker shafts back in the arms because the wear patterns will be different.

If i was to rebuild that motor replace the oil pump because that will have some dings in it from round one of vcm i went to.
High volume looks to be a good mod.

Just be sure to put a rag over the valve retainers because they like to go flying or bounce around and it is very annoying.

Loli stripped the head down no probs, I no how to do it. Its putting the collets back that worries me as the valve springs are quite a bit harder than stock, and it took me twenty minutes of getting very angry to get them back in. Im stillfinding short skirt tb pistons at heaps of shops, hence the questions lol

 

[zwebx]

Loli stripped the head down no probs, I no how to do it. Its putting the collets back that worries me as the valve springs are quite a bit harder than stock, and it took me twenty minutes of getting very angry to get them back in. Im stillfinding short skirt tb pistons at heaps of shops, hence the questions lol

It seems you can still order them from dhz.. lol you want to make sure they are the long skirt versions before purchasing..
Or ensure your bore is a bees **** larger than the bore (Certain spec) and once it goes past that by .2mm and then it can clap like a mofo till it cracks and says hello to the head.

 

[Phil67]

Don't use short skirt Stu.

 

[my67xr]

this is the older short skirt 64mm TB piston (discontinued) to suit skirtless cylinders #TBW0582A

here is the long skirt TB 64mm piston #TB590

 

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

Cheers guys, long skirt kit it shall be!

 

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

I've been looking around, and every 64mm bore and piston kit I find is short skirt, and im not keen on buying the bore kit and piston and then adding another 100 bucks for the long skirt piston. What are the benefits of the tb bore compared to getting my bore taken out to 64mm?

 

[Snaptrax]

Tb bore has Tb stamped into it.

 

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

So I may as well just get my bore taken out like craig suggested earlier. Almost got sucked in by their marketing lol

 

[Phil67]

The TB bore is ceramic coated isnt it?

 

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

The TB bore is ceramic coated isnt it?

It is, whats that do though, is it worth 200 bucks?

 

[my67xr]

it will have slightly less friction with the piston, but also suffers from a shorter life.

 

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

it will have slightly less friction with the piston, but also suffers from a shorter life.

Do you think its worth the 200, or just get mine bored out

 

[zwebx]

Do you think its worth the 200, or just get mine bored out

i had once considered that.. Its either is buy a akunar piston for something like $80 shipped and with sleeve and then have to worry about clearances with the valves and then pay someone $100 approx to get it installed
Then im at 180... (even if i manage to get the work done for $50 its still peice of mind and not worrying about valves touching pistons)

Or i could go and buy the kit for 200 and be done with it and install it.

Ceramic bores are a step up from std with nikacil being the pinnacle however expensive.

 

[zwebx]

On addition to that subject the advantage to having a sleeved bore is next time it gets a mark in it or wears out.. you can use a press at home, $50 bucks or whatever for a new sleeve and install a new one then hone to size.. good as new

I can almost guarantee the kit will be the longer skirt.. So your bike will have some respect for itself.

 

[my67xr]

i would have mine bored if i was going to the 64mm piston.

 

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

So while waiting for funds I thought I may as well clean the cases up. Started off like this

Got them to this stage after a couple of hours

Still need to hit them with 1200 and 2000 grit, but I had none.

 

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

Still need to actually polish them, but they are getting shiny now, better than my last effort

 

[my67xr]

looking good, have you tried 0000 grade steel wool, or stainless scourers pads (don't use too much pressure)