RevMX TTR 155z Problems & Solutions

[user 14796]

Hey guys, I've been wanting to get this bike and in doing so have been researching through all the posts and threads in the forums and reading about and have also talked to russ about the bike. Basically as I was reading I was jotting down all the little things that should take my attention and how some of the issues were fixed.

I've got a picture of the page here, just want to check with you guys if there are things needing changing on the page so I know for when I buy my bike. And also I messaged russ about any changed on the new shipment and he said that;
"the OKO carburettor was supposed to have the angled head but instead
was given the straight head which can sometimes create throttle
sticking. A few people had throttle sticking but was easily fixed with
some minor adjustments. The other problem was the OKO Jets which was
resolved as I supply every purchase with 5 x main jets and 5 x pilot
jets so you can tune the bike to your requirements.

The next lot of bikes have the angled head and correct jetting which
should put most peoples mind to ease."

Which means there will be less adjustments needed to the bike once it's made up.
Can I just have a hand correcting everything that needs to be done.

Thanks heaps guys.

 

[topguntravis]

Looks about right from what I've read in the posts.
LOCTITE everything would be a good idea too

 

[thump*140]

Kreston it looks like you've had a good look through my review thread, i see a few familiar comments there...
The thing to remember, is that half the stuff that is listed there, would need to be done to ANY pitbike you buy... not just the RevMX... There isnt a pitbike out there, that doesnt need work before you ride it. Those that dont get any work done before you ride it, generally dont last the first ride without something coming off, something snapping, or breaking down altogether... So this isnt a problem reserved only for the Revmx...
Most of the issues that are actually bike-specific problems have been either addressed in my review, or directly with Russ, and i'm sure the second batch will have the little bugs ironed out.
point number 2 to remember, is that this is the first batch of a new model, so there are bound to be issues...
Point number 3 to remember, i've owned a few Jap Mxers from new, and did all the same work to them before riding them, and they cost a hell of a lot more with initial setup... Pay 10K+ and still had to fork out a few hundred dollars for handlebars, decent chains, sprockets etc, before even starting the thing... not to mention decent engine oil etc etc....
The specific problems with the TTR seem to be stiff forks, which is due to the wrong weight oil being used in them, the brake lever fouling the bolts on the gearbox, fuel cap being poorly machined, and the stock jetting being incorrect.
All the other issues listed, are a problem with ANY other bike on the market, with the exception of the Pitster Pro LXR having a rear shock protector... havent seen too many other pitties with a shock guard standard...
Any issues i've mentioned in the review thread, are specific to my bike, and came about from missing minor bits during initial set up... ie: slipping clutch due to the adjuster grub screw on the clutch lever... The sticky throttle effects some, doesnt effect others...
Castle nut on the clutch effects some, doesnt effect others...
Braking performance has been reported as poor on one bike, every one elses seems to have pretty epic braking power.
I dont think it's necessary to replace the stock carby with a keihin, i've just swapped out the straight cap on mine for a angled cap, and once the correct jets are installed, the carby works faultlessly, and it seems all the bikes have the air screw wound all the way in...

having said all that, if the bike is setup properly when you first recieve it, all of these things should be covered.

 

[pbk]

thump missed one thing loctite most nuts, bolts and screws do this thouroghly or you are bound to a loose a bolt or ten lol

 

[thump*140]

nah top gun travis already said that, so i left it out.
thing is you gotta be careful you loctite the right nuts, and dont loctite the wrong ones....
eg plastics, fuel tanks etc etc... triple clamp pinch bolts, stuff like that..

 

[user 14796]

Thanks very much Thump for that, I was kind of hoping you would help me out on this one anyway.
Yes the point of all this research was basically because I have never done this before as I've owned a Yamaha which I never actually touched the parts of. It's no doubt going to be an experience to properly operate and care for a machine like this and I can't wait to do it, since there were barely anything to touch with my Yamaha it sort of turned me away from riding it and I got less and less caring for it.

So to put this clear for me after the initial setup of the bike you recommend the following;
- Changing the oil *Drain transport oil, change for Castrol 4t - I used a litre to fill mine, bigger oil coolers.*
- Bleed and feed the brake pads *My brakes worked fine from the get-go, but if you experience trouble with them, bleed the brakes to ensure there are no bubbles in the lines. Brake pads are fine, and offer plenty of bite.*
- Loctite everything *Loctite engine mount bolts, any bolts on the frame that you dont want coming off, the small screws in the muffler end cap, reach adjuster grub screw in the clutch lever, rear shock mounts. Things like bolts for plastics, pinch bolts on forks and triple clamps, dont loctite. *
- Turn the air screw back 2 1/2 turns so it's not rough in Idle. *Remove the standard jetting as soon as you get the bike, replace the pilot jet with the #39 or #40 pilot. Replace the #112 main jet with a #100 or #102 main.* (note when i made my first air screw adjustment, it was done with stock jetting in the bike. It's now 1 and a 1/2 turns out)
- Change the right leg to 225ml of 5w oil. *Remove forks from bike, drain BOTH forks of oil. Replace with 225ml of 5w oil. If you weigh under 70kg, fill with 200ml of 5w oil.*
*another good thing to check for, is that the clickers on the suspension have all been set equally... ie: rebound and compression adjusters on forks are both set at the same amount of clicks... easiest way to check this, is to wind them all the way in, then wind them out ten clicks each. This will set them roughly in the middle. Do the same with the rear shock, wind it all the way out, then wind out 8 clicks.*

Modifications
- Rear Shock Cover *Can be acheived by cutting a section of old tyre tube, wrapping around shock, zip tie to upper shock body.*
- Replace Fuel Cap *Stock fuel cap isnt machined correctly. Replace before filling with fuel. If you get a bike from the second order, this should be fixed*

Rear Brake Lever? *Remove from bike, using a grinder cut a small chamfer on the lever where it snags on the engine bolt on the clutch cover.*
New Bearings? *Depends on your bike. If your bearing collapse, replace them. otherwise leave them*
Carby Intake (Cutting the Adapter)? * havent had any issues with mine. Seats perfectly, have left mine alone*

If you have issues with the throttle sticking, remove the throttle from the bars, check to see if there are any lips or casting dags on the throttle tube. Using a file or dremel, smooth inner throttle tube if necessary until there are no raised bits that can catch on the bars.
If this has been done, and the throttle is still sticking, go onto OKO Australia - Flatslide Carburettors and seach for part number #3050. That's the angled cap. Bout $30...

Now for your little edit so I know exactly what needs to be done to the bike.
Thanks heaps thump

 

[pbk]

Thanks very much Thump for that, I was kind of hoping you would help me out on this one anyway.
Yes the point of all this research was basically because I have never done this before as I've owned a Yamaha which I never actually touched the parts of. It's no doubt going to be an experience to properly operate and care for a machine like this and I can't wait to do it, since there were barely anything to touch with my Yamaha it sort of turned me away from riding it and I got less and less caring for it.

So to put this clear for me after the initial setup of the bike you recommend the following;
- Changing the oil
- Bleed and feed the brake pads
- Loctite everything
- Turn the air screw back 2 1/2 turns so it's not rough in Idle.
- Change the right leg to 225ml of 5w oil.

Modifications
- Rear Shock Cover
- Replace Fuel Cap

Rear Brake Lever?
New Bearings?
Carby Intake (Cutting the Adapter)?

Now for your little edit so I know exactly what needs to be done to the bike.
Thanks heaps thump

the air/screw mixture should only be 1 to 1 1/2 turns out according to the pitster tunining guide

 

[user 14796]

Isn't 1 turn equal to 2 half turns..

 

[I_THUMP]

Hahaha I like the pic of your word document (very old school), and now I think I seen you before:

Good to see your doin your research before jumping in and buying the first pretty bike you come across :grinning-smiley-003

 

[user 14796]

hahaha quality picture, and thanks for the heads up.

 

[sean01]

its not 2 half turns its 2 and a 1/2 turns..

but yes the correct setting when the pilot is perfect is 1 and 1/2 turns but some can get the same results all the way up to 2 and 1/2 turns in the mixture screw

 

[user 14796]

its not 2 half turns its 2 and a 1/2 turns..

but yes the correct setting when the pilot is perfect is 1 and 1/2 turns but some can get the same results all the way up to 2 and 1/2 turns in the mixture screw

Oh I must have read it wrong elsewhere, what factors effect how many turns you do?

 

[pbk]

Oh I must have read it wrong elsewhere, what factors effect how many turns you do?

the jets your using

 

[user 14796]

the jets your using

So for this bike's jet, how many turns is ideal?

 

[sean01]

it all depends on your location and climate

 

[user 14796]

it all depends on your location and climate

ride all year round i guess, and through bush tracks mainly, so do i change it for summer and winter? If so what do you recommend now?

 

[sean01]

no you missed my point..
location as to sea level or in the mountains etc
climate as to cold or hot etc

summer and winter are generally the same in most regions but places like tassie could do with jetting for both.

 

[user 14796]

no you missed my point..
location as to sea level or in the mountains etc
climate as to cold or hot etc

summer and winter are generally the same in most regions but places like tassie could do with jetting for both.

Ah, I asked my friend and he told me that's what you meant.
In that case it's mountains and climate at 20-25 deg.

 

[sean01]

how high up in the mountains?
altitude effects jets sizes

 

[user 14796]

how high up in the mountains?
altitude effects jets sizes

100-550m above sea level