2008 Atomik Blitz 250 review

[thump*140]

Mate there is NOTHING that can be done to improve the Blitz forks... They are ridiculously basic in their damping, and yet have a rather complicated fork cap/automatic spring preload set up...
The Red Nuts on top of the fork leg, are a bit odd.. they have little grub screws in them to stop them from turning, and loosening the grub screw, and turning them effects spring preload... which is actually tensioned automatically also, as the main fork cap is screwed into the fork leg...
I took mine to a VERY VERY good suspension tuner, and he stated there is nothing that can be done to improve them... what you get, is what you are stuck with sadly...
I tried all sorts of things with mine in regards to the adjustment nuts, and found no difference after playing with any of them...
The fork action is also stiffened by the fact that the inside of the fork leg, where the inner fork leg runs through the upper stanchion, does not have an "oil bath", so the sliders get no lubricant at all.. which greatly increases stiction, thus making the forks seems very stiff, and the fork guards themselves, are too tight around the fork leg... they actually "grip" the stanchions as the forks go up and down, also making for a very harsh fork action... I discovered real early that 98-03 fork legs bolt straight on, and while they made a pretty big difference to the levels of stiction with the stock forks, the stock forks, are, basically, quite ****...
Your best bet is to turf em, and replace them with YZF or WRF items.... They can be sourced pretty cheaply considering, and when used in conjunction with Yamaha top triple clamps (98-00 models confirmed, unsure about later models) they are a direct bolt on swap... even the Blitz brake caliper bolts straight onto the YZF fork leg, and i'm yet to try it, but i reckon YZF front wheel bearings, will fit into Blitz hubs, so you can use the YZF axles as well, if you cant find a YFZ wheel....
Slowly but surely, we're finding solutions to the suspension problems with the Blitz, and they are relatively cheap, and massively effective...

 

[pbk]

hey thump my mate uses some fork spray...its like a silicon spray and makes your forks heaps heaps smoother so maybe you should try some im not 100%wjats it called but will find out for you or otherwise ask peter1230 next time hes on....it works a real treat even on rear suspension

 

[thump*140]

yeah mate, i know the stuff, and yeah, it's a great product.. sadly it doesnt fix the Atomik forks problem of having no oil near the seal anyways... so it would only work temporarily...
besides, i'm running YZF boingers now...

 

[synergy17]

im looking for the wiring diagram for the cdi unit as the one i brought has a different plug type on it, couldn't get pic of it on here today so i just made a crappy one with good ol windows paint.

or if anyone has changed theres over and has the same plug as my new one could help?

wiring colours to cdi:
blue/white trace
green
black/ red trace
black/yellow trace
black/white trace

 

[Hyzer]

take a look here Hooper Imports Experts on Chinese Motorcycles and Parts, Engines

 

[synergy17]

thanks Hyzer
exactly what i was looking for

 

[thump*140]

Synergy i'll post up a pic of the wiring and plug-outs for the Casoli ignition, which seems to work pretty well...
I've been talking to Atomik Drew about his CDI, which is not working, the problem being that the one he purchased was for a 110-150 horizontal-type engine, which i *believe* have a different curve than the Casoli 250-dedicated CDI, and does not work at all well with the Loncin Gen III...
So my question is, can you post up a pic of yours, or the link for it?
If your plugs dont come close to matching, then i believe you may have purchased the wrong sort of CDI, same as Atomik Drew did.. and re-wiring the plugs to fit, whilst being correctly wired, still wont work, as the curves are different...
This is the sort of CDI that you want..:
RACING HIGH PERFORMANCE CDI 150CC 250CC ATV DIRT BIKE:eBay Motors (item 180410156672 end time Oct-20-09 19:00:23 PDT)

 

[synergy17]

cant get my phone to conect to the laptop again, stupid thing. however i can text ya the pic of it 2moro, i did go back to the place i got it from and re-read the description PROPERLY this time, it says its for the 160, doh.

sus'd out the the link and got one on order.

cheers

 

[synergy17]

Update again...
Have fitted a 26mm OKO Flatslide to the Blitz. I havent got any photos to show of the conversion, cause basically, there is no room to take any pics in there, and you cant see anything...
I will say, this is a complete b****** of a carby to fit into the Blitz frame. There is very little room to move when it comes to cables, fuel lines, but especially the air filter.
I have had to delete the standard airbox, as the intake bellmouth of the carby measures 50mm, and the intake snorkel going from the airbox to the carby measures only 42mm... dont fit... so i've used the standard air filter that's fitted to most pit bikes and chinas etc. Space around the air filter and carby itself is down to 2mm in places, so it takes awhile, a fair bit of swearing, and a beer and cigarette in the middle to calm down to finish making it fit... ha ha... however, there is a plus side..

i can agree with the swearing and alot of it, mine was a pain, still havnt got it complete as i couldnt get the shock back in due to hitting the air filter. had a look at the pics back in here and noticed my air filter dosnt hav an angled rubber flange on it, proberly end up making sum sort of adaptor to fit the filter or another idea i had was to maybe take the inlet manifold over to the belt sander and change the angles so it moves the carby over away from the shocker a lil bit.

 

[Velocity]

can anyone tell me wheather the blitz runs a alternator to charge the battery, went fora bust on it today and hen i stopped for a bit then went to go start it, it wouldnt start with the electric star so i had to kick the bloody thing but when i kick it the green netural light comes on, just wanna no wheather the alternator is no good if it has one, the bike is only 2 weeks old.
Cheers

 

[Velocity]

and also looking to upgrade the carby found one on ebay but not sure if this NEW OKO 26MM FLATSLIDE CARBY KIT 1/8 THROTTLE UNIFILTER - eBay Other Makes, Bike Parts, Motorcycle Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 14-Nov-09 01:00:57 AEDST) wil fit or do?

 

[grimmy]

can anyone tell me wheather the blitz runs a alternator to charge the battery, went fora bust on it today and hen i stopped for a bit then went to go start it, it wouldnt start with the electric star so i had to kick the bloody thing but when i kick it the green netural light comes on, just wanna no wheather the alternator is no good if it has one, the bike is only 2 weeks old.
Cheers

Most likely the rubbish battery is the culprit!
They are junk (I am a sparky) and will fail within weeks or best months!

 

[thump*140]

and also looking to upgrade the carby found one on ebay but not sure if this NEW OKO 26MM FLATSLIDE CARBY KIT 1/8 THROTTLE UNIFILTER - eBay Other Makes, Bike Parts, Motorcycle Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 14-Nov-09 01:00:57 AEDST) wil fit or do?

^^^^ yeah that's the one... if you order one from DHZ, ask Ken if you can have a #98 main jet fitted or supplied, and an "angled" air filter... makes fitment a lot easier...
When you install everything (throttle, carby, filter etc) go back through the last few pages, theres a fair bit of info on the pros and cons, and how to's of the installation...
With the throttle cable, remove the 2nd short throttle cable where it comes out of the splitter... that one is only used for the pumper on the stock carby, and the standard crappy throttle action is due to the throttle itself, not the cable...
plus, it means you dont have to find a cable long enough to reach the carby...
to make fitment easier, remove the stock airbox, then undo the top shock mount, and swing the shock backwards out of the way... gives you a lot more space to work with, and is about the only way to get the stock carby clear of the bike without breaking fingers...

 

[Velocity]

Thanks for the info thump*140 and grimmy

 

[thump*140]

anytime mate... if you cant find the answers to any Blitz related questions in this thread, pm me, i've figured out a few tricks with this particular bike...

 

[Velocity]

i worked out my electric start situation check the battery its still good i checked the fuse and the fuse was blown changed that and boom started straight away with the electric start

 

[synergy17]

thump*
im not to cluey with the carby but i reckon my oko came with a #100 main, is this going to be an issue or will i get by with it??

cheers.

 

[thump*140]

Should be in the ballpark mate... I'm running a #98 in mine, and it's jetted very crisp... but a #100 main should be fine, if a tad on the rich side, which is probably not a bad thing anyway... If you yank the big nut off the bottom of the float bowl, that gives you direct access to the main and pilot jet without the need to remove the float bowl... you can pull the jets out, and they will both have the jet number/size stamped on the side...
The only thing with the OKO's i've found, is that the main jet DOES effect the pilot jet.... you'll soon find out if it's working or not once you put it on and run the bike.. it will take awhile to start, and will cough for a bit until it settles down, but it's an instant bolt on WIN... as long as your jets are #K37 up to maybe #k40 on the Pilot, and a #100 main, you should be pretty right...
Oh, a dab of silicon around the part where the throttle goes into the carby, will help seal it off a bit, and get rid of the air leak that it creates...

 

[dacoffee]

anyone tried the oko carb on the kuda pro?

 

[thump*140]

not on a kuda pro, but on a gen II zonger motor... same as the Kuda pro...
Has the same effect on the Kuda Pro motor, that it does on every other bike you bolt an OKO to...
Bottom end is about the same as the crap mikuni you replaced, mid range is punchier and crisper when jetted properly, and builds into a screaming (for an air cooled SOHC China motor) top end.
Well worth the cost mate, cut the muffler down as well, the difference is astounding once the mods are done...
Go with an OKO 26mm, not the 28mm...