2013 Atomik Fury 250cc Review/Build thread

[xLOCOx]

yeah port and polish! free if you dont already have a die grinder and bits! maybe shave the down? 50 bucks down at your local engineering joint... but you would most likely have to swap out the jets, higher comp ect...
BUT shes looking dirty!!! thats a good thing..!

 

[zwebx]

wash that poor girl blender, she needs some love lol

Never wash her.. till the end of the weekend ride her hard and redline everywhere.... gotta break in the *****

 

[zwebx]

yeah port and polish! free if you dont already have a die grinder and bits! maybe shave the down? 50 bucks down at your local engineering joint... but you would most likely have to swap out the jets, higher comp ect...
BUT shes looking dirty!!! thats a good thing..!

Free when the head is already off to do rings, piston etc..

Personally i would keep it the way it is and maybe some nicer forks then ride it till it dont work.. by then i could imagine you would have saved enough to buy a nice 125 2t or a 250 4t

Or of cause a lxr then ride at vcm

 

[Blender]

Ok well after waiting a week and a half for the handguards to arrive, I go to put the on and realise that the eBay seller sent me 22mm adapters, rather than the 28mm I ordered. I sent him an email and he said he'd sent out some 28mm adapters free of charge. Just means I have to wait another week and a half.

Any way. I pulled the carb of and managed to undo the overly tight fuel bowl screws. Now I need a bigger pilot jet, and I got one a while ago, a #45. I didn't think it would work, but I thought I might aswell try it. So I put it in, started it and there was a massive hesitation when blip revving it, the old #36 jet was better. So I screwed the mixture screw all the way it, and it runs super clean, no hesitation, or backfiring on de-celeration. Is this normal ? I took it for a spin and it was alot quicker, I didn't have to wait until the mid range revs to do wheelies, it did it straight off idle. Just thought I would ask, I honestly do not want to do any damage to this engine!!

 

[my67xr]

to go from a 38 to a 45 is a pretty big step up, there is a #40, and #42 in between them


i'd order a new #40 Pilot from DHZ

what you could do is drill out your #38 Pilot jet to a #40, but you will need a .4mm drill bit and Pin vise
do you have them at school/tech ?

do you have a jaycar close to you ?
20 Piece Micro Drill Set 0.3 - 1.6mmt 0.3 - 1.6mm - Jaycar Electronics
Pin Vice - Jaycar Electronics

a pin vise -
Swivel Head PIN Vice 1mm 3mm Hand Drill | eBay

or ex UK- 20pc Tiny Very Small Micro HSS Twist Drill BIT SET 0 3mm 1 6mm | eBay

double ended pin vise ex- china- 0 0 8MM2 3mm Steel PIN Vise Holder FOR Drill Bits | eBay

a set of bits and pin vise ex USA - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/21-PC-FI...LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43cde18880&_uhb=1

 

[Blender]

Yea, The jet is actually a #36, my bad. I'm not sure whether or not we have those, I'll have to ask. It seems to run really well, I would do a plug chop but I appear to have a flat tyre.

 

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

i have a 38,40 and 42 here im pretty sure if you want em, that way you can play a little..

 

[Blender]

K well put hand guards on, looks alright I reckon.

 

[my67xr]

the new handguards look pretty good, and will save your fingers through the brush.

what Aeroflow parts do you have on it ?

 

[Blender]

Yea, sick of getting levers broken and cutting up my hands. No Aeroflow parts on it (yet??) Just a sticker I found

 

[Blender]

Ok well after a break from the bikes, i finally got her running again, albeit a little rough. I have to check the valve clearences, very audible tapping noise coming from the head. it currently need a new rear tube, so I'll grab one tomorrow, as well as a #38 and #40 pilot jet.

going to be buying some things for it soon, ultimately going to be upgrading the linkage system. it's a pretty poorly designed part, considering it is expected to withstand alot of wear. even with new bearings, there is alot of play, both sideways and up and down. I think i might be able to put some small washers to act as spacers throughout the linkage pivot points, I'll try that and see how it goes.

 

[IAMTG]

Blender,
The linkage on mine was bad too, seems all the Blitz's (from what I have read) had the linkage bolts that were about a quarter mil smaller than the diameter inside the bearings, allowed for movement in all three linkages. I replaced all the linkage bolts but that didnt really do much. I also added big washers to remove the sideways movement. On the Blitz there is no linkage bearing shields at each end just open bearings whereas the jap bikes have bearings in shields/guards. Bearing will need changing a bit after the crap gets through them.

As for the jets, I have a #40 primary on my OKO30 (but I have the 250 water cooled). Its snappy and sharp but I am having an issue with it taking a while to come back down to idle. Need to find the air leak I am guessing. Haven't had a chance to really run it yet, did my back and the ute was off the road getting an engine transplant so have no way to get to QMP. Got a sweat little 253 V8 in her now but needs more work before it will get me out a town safely.

As for the shock, what is the weight of the bike and the linkage geometry. According to a suspension champ I spoke with the key to grafting is getting the linkages matched to the valve rates and spring on the shock. Else you could have fast linkage geometry and a slow shock/spring. Will put additional forced on components and will ride like a brick, or inversely slow linkages and fast shock/spring will be too soft and bottom out everywhere or not return after bumps. Let me know if you need dimensions of the KLX400 shock I use.

 

[Blender]

hey man, I'd love the dimensions, that would be awesome! Taking it on a ride today, I noticed the rear end was pretty noisy, and not absorbing any shock at all, gives you a sore back after about an hour of riding. So a definite upgrade is coming.

You had to bend your exhaust a bit when you fit your KLX400 shock/linkage right? How much did you have to bend it ?

 

[IAMTG]

It was the shock reservoir that was the issue, had to bend the pipe down at the u turn coming out of the engine then that gave the angle to get under the reservoir and then bend it back up just after the reservoir so it still bolted onto the original mount hole for the pipe. All in all only about 3/4 inch lower at the reservoir. But in bending it down at the u turn it was now touching the water hoses so I added a piece of heat shield between it and the hose, I believe yours is air cooled so not an issue.
I will measure up the shock tonight. I know its 450mm long. I had a quick look an Fleabay and there's a couple there, the local one from Coffs is not bad, he has been pretty pricey on other things I have looked at, and there's a couple in the US. The klx400r was a shared development with Suzuki so its also the DRZ400, so any of the KLX400/drz400 from 2003 should be ok, but I cannot vouch for the linkages on the DRZ, I have not checked.
Can you post up the linkage geometry, a side photo of the linkage with a ruler if you can, I will compare it to mine. Bike weight for yours would be less to I assume so it could be too much shock for your bike, but we will see. The KLX400r was about 120kg as is my bike.

 

[IAMTG]

Ohhh and I used the standard linkages with the Blitz, I did not get the KLX linkage.

 

[Blender]

Hmm, I'll get pic ASAP, iirc my bike is about 116 KG dry, 124 wet. So should be just right with the shock?

So putting the DRZ/KLX shock in, did it lessen the rattle of the rear linkage?

 

[Blender]

ok, so this is the exact same linkage my bike uses, the only difference being that my linkage arms are made of steel and are thinner. the linkage "Triangle" is exactly the same, I'll most likely get alinkage and shock.

2000 Kawasaki KLX300 Shock Link Linkage | eBay

 

[IAMTG]

I saw the klx300 shock on ebay aswell. Not sure on its spec so cant say. The geometry of the linkage really matters. If the triangle is flatter, or the two ends closer or the proportion between the end and the centre is vastly different to yours then it will be a gamble. Do some research and sus out pics of the donor bike and compare to yours. The length of the two arms will also be critical as it will position the initial angle of the rising rate linkage triangle and therefore have a big part in shock behaviour through its full travel.
I'm not trying to put you off, its just that a new shock based on similar geometry is less variables than the linkage kit aswell. But if its cheap and easy, maybe try it.
As for my linkage, once I shimmed the sideways movement out of the linkage it was heaps better. Still a tiny amount of movement from the bearings on the bolt/shaft but not enough to be a concern.

 

[Blender]

Hmm yea, I'll do a bit more research, check out some wreckers, see if they have any bikes, etc. I'll put up a pic of the linkage tomorrow sometime. Did you just use normal steel washers as shims/spacers?

 

[IAMTG]

Yeah mate just big stainless washers.
Also forgot to give you the mount measurements. Top is 21mm across and bottom is 23mm between the forked legs. Do some checking that the spring diameter is not too wide and wont rub on anything, mines very close in a few spots.