my Braaap Pro Daytona 190F Anima

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

The stock rev limit isnt a great deal more than that is it? 11 300rpm from memory? Cant imagine needing to drop it bellow stock, considering you can take it as high as 15000rpm.

 

[Phil67]

Yes leave it on the stock ignition setting, you will be fine at that. Happy to give you my bike and 500 cash for it!
Check out the 2014 YCF plastics, really nice front fender and plate, I've been trying to get them for weeks now.

 

[my67xr]

i have read that holding the Anima's pinned in the first setting @ 11k can lead to premature rod and valve failures.
and there's no point revving it out if you aren't making any more power.
i can make something removable so once it's been modifed i can remove the lower limiter
anything higher than 12k on the 190's wont last long with the stock components.


some of the places i've ridden at i've held my Fuse 150 at wot for almost 7km's, only backing off for the 3 corners, and they're 2-3kms apart.



i'm going to have a play around in a minute with the optional Braaap Hour meter/Tacho
it is currently reading around 4000 rpm at idle.
i have a Digital/Optical Tacho that i will set up on it, and check the true rpms with, then adjust the Tacho to make it more accurate.



the 2014 YCF catalogue sux Phil, only cause i don't have the cash to spend

 

[my67xr]

i didn't think i'd find this, it's a bigger flywheel than i expected, huge (long) pickup too
guess it's for the different settings

that Neutral switch has spent it's last night on the 190, it's going !

the gap for the pick up sensor looks pretty big to me as well, it's about 1mm, i'll have to close it up to .1mm.
it should give the CDI a lot stronger signal too

 

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

I have a bash plate to suit if your interested craig?

 

[my67xr]

thanks Stu,
i reckon i'll be right, i'm pretty sure i have 2 spare ones here.

I checked the idle rpm speed of the 190 using my Optical Tacho yesterday, it is idling at around 2000 rpms.


the Braaap Tacho/Hour meter said it was about 4800-5000rpm.
it is just a cheap universal meter that Braaap has it's name printed onto.
The tacho uses a length of wire coming out the back of it that runs down to your coil/spark plug lead as the tacho pick up.
It depends on how strong the signal is through the lead, to what amount of windings you need around the plug lead.
Most tacho/hour meters recommend between 2 and 5 coils of wire, some say you can connect the wire to your positive coil terminal too.
In this case whoever fitted it had used 10 full coils/winding of wire around the spark plug lead.

I tried using less windings around the plug lead to drop the reading back close to what is should be.
So i dropped it to 5 coils around the lead, but this hardly changed the reading
Now i have ended up trying 3 coils, this is fairly close to it's true idle speed of about 2050 rpm


I'll have to see how it goes, and judge how accurate it is when i'm out riding
It might need a resistor added in between the windings and the meter.

 

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

That seems a little high, or are they supposed to idle that high? I always just wound it down as low as possible, maybe thats my problem with carb tuning

 

[my67xr]

yeah i thought so too,
but after a bit more research i found that the smaller 2v engines like the 125's etc, idle somewhere between 1250 rpm and 1500.

so 2000 isn't that far off.
especially when you consider the high lift long duration roller cam that is in the Daytona's
compare it to a car engine, my XR Fairmont used to idle at 750-800 rpm with a mild V8 engine.
Then i swapped in a bigger cube engine with high comp pistons, better rings, closed chamber heads, bigger valves, ported heads, much bigger camshaft, match ported manifold, big carby, with high output / high energy electronic ignition, 4 into 1 tuned extractors etc etc
it now idles at 1200 rpm

a couple of my mates cars have roller cams, big block engines (500=, and 600+ cubic inch), 13/1 compression etc etc the Chev is now making a touch over 1300 hp.
that is lucky to idle at anything under 2200 rpm.
the standard version of that engine, a 454 would be happy idling at 800 rpm in gear all day.


i adjusted the Daytona so the idle speed dropped down to about 1200rpm, it sounded a bit like an old tractor.

i'll make a video today with the 190 engine running and the Optical Tacho readings.

 

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

All makes sense, I might try lifting the idle a little in the sisters gpx. No wonder I was having trouble with tuning my190, I was going low as with the idle speed.

 

[motorman]

Nice pickup there mate for sure.

 

[zwebx]

Was it minimob or something like that are now doing forged rods and pistons now
That would make a sick bike that could safely bounce off the 15 limiter?

 

[my67xr]

yeah that and springs and retainers as well before i considered 13k +
the forged rod and piston were about £150 each, seen them the other night

 

[zwebx]

https://www.facebook.com/MBFactoryP...41839.159765620743733/701692123217744/?type=1
a link for those that are interested still $600 all up for forged bits isnt bad..
i wonder how the bearings and wrist pin will hold up in the long run is the question i would want someone else to answer before i find out the hard way

 

[my67xr]

i changed the tank shroud stickers tonight, i blacked out the monster stripes and fitted something better looking
and added a new sticker to the front number plate
i cant understand why Braaap has companys' names on their bikes but don't use their parts ??
or are they just the companys that sponsor braaap ?

 

[SwapperMX]

i changed the tank shroud stickers tonight, i blacked out the monster stripes and fitted something better looking
and added a new sticker to the front number plate
i cant understand why Braaap has companys' names on their bikes but don't use their parts ??
or are they just the companys that sponsor braaap ?

Were you up drinking at 3 am ?? That kit is a replica of Jason Lawrence's race bike from 2009.

 

[my67xr]

nah i don't drink.
it's just easier/quieter working on stuff after my wife and kids go to bed.
and i don't sleep much too, i get about 3-4 hours a night on average.

 

[my67xr]

I noticed the other day that the spark was a little weak, feint blue.
i removed the ignition coil off the frame and checked it over.
one ignition coil mounting tab had a little corrosion on it, so i cleaned that up, and used some dielectric grease on both tabs to stop it happening again.
and i smeared a fine layer of the grease over the whole coil while i was at it.

I tested the ignition coil with the multimeter and found the readings were pretty good,
1 Ohm on the primary side, and 4k (4000)Ohms on the secondary side

Then tested the spark plug cap, it read 8 Ohms instead of 5 Ohms, so i have replaced that.
having less resistance, the new spark plug cap should help the spark, and not put as much load on the ignition coil and the CDI.
I'd hate to know how much the CDI's are to replace, with the adjustable timing curve and adjustable rev limiter.



i also found a spare 4 terminal socket that's been taped back to the harness, it was tucked away up under the fuel tank.
it has 4 wires, and they look to like they're for a regulator/rectifier, red, yellow, yellow w/green, and green.
i had a look at where the stator joins the harness and can see that the yellow, and yellow w/green stripe wires are coming out the top of the stator loom.
I will check it out better when i remove the flywheel at some stage.
edit i just saw the yellow and yellow w/green wires in a pic i posted the other day of the flywheel too, it didn't click then

 

[motorman]

+ Reps on the Miniriders stickers

Looks good on the black I reckon.

That reminds me, I still gotta get my kit on. Been the longest build in the world. haha

Time to get the shed sorted so I can get back out there and work on the bikes. Been missing that. Well that and actually riding the buggers.

 

[my67xr]

Thanks mate.

I don't know if anyone noticed in the pic above, but i fitted the OKO 26 onto it.
The original Mikuni 22 and airbox are now sitting in a shelf in my shed.

The OKO jetting took a little while to suss out, but it blip revs pretty sweet atm.
i need to take it out somewhere and give it a try now.
I ended up with a #50 Pilot jet and a #110 Main jet, with the air screw 2 turns out, and the Needle Clip in the Middle Notch.
i wish the other Pilot Jets, that i've ordered, had arrived.

 

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

Wow 50 pilot seems large, I tried a 45 in the pe28 but it was to large. Will go so much better with the 26mm, and there is still the option of going bigger again.