Pit Pro 140 2008 - is it real?

[Kronik Pitster]

I just bought a Pit Pro 140 2008 model but I have some questions about it.
The guy told me it was a 2008 model, but the plate on the frame stem is stamped 2007. He also said that he doesn't sell the bikes with LIFAN engines anymore and that mine is fitted with a YX140 motor. However, the motor looks exactly the same as a LIFAN.
Can anyone confirm if my bike is actually a 2008 model and what the difference is between a LIFAN 140 and a YX140?
I weigh almost 90kg and the front forks bottom out when I jump, can anyone suggest a cheap fix? The top of the forks have some anodised red adjusters, but I don't know if they actually do anything.
Here is a pic of my bike.

 

[pbk]

yes its a pitpro and it looks like an 08 as the exhaust is the new one for this year model bikes and forks well just buy new ones even some mazzorcchi replicas shouldnt cost too much you could try some better fork oil it depends on how much effort your going to go with the forks

 

[Kronik Pitster]

Thanks pitbikekid,
what about the motor? Is there any difference between the 140XY and LIFAN?

Do you know if the red screws on top of the forks actually do anything?

 

[rumble]

the screws on top of the forks are air bleed screws. Tried to undo mine and it broke, so i wouldnt touch them.

 

[pbk]

um i dont think there is i think its the same thing lifan and yx 140 someone correct me if im wrong

 

[kilovictor]

The YX is made by Yingxiang Motorcycle Group and the Lifan by the Lifan Industry Group.

 

[Kronik Pitster]

How do I know which one I have? The engine number is the same as the LIFAN number.
I have another problem. Fuel is leaking out from where the fuel tap connects into the petrol tank. The rubber seal has been eaten away and now the fuel leaked onto the air filter, causing the filter to peel from the plastic.
I took the bike back to the dealer and he reckons he fixed it, but it looks like he only scraped the old seal away and glued the fuel tap back in.
What do you guys think about that? Anyone else had similar issues?

 

[themountain]

How do I know which one I have? The engine number is the same as the LIFAN number.
QUOTE]


If the number is the same(1P55FMJ) then its a Lifan with a 82mm barrel/15mm pistonpin/55mm Piston

if its a YX you got a 79mm barrel/13mm pin/56mm piston

...and change your forkoil to 20W and try to get stiffer springs(old Aprilia RS 125 may fit)

 

[Cactus Jack]

Yes the Lifan is 1P55FMJ and has a 55 mm bore x 59 mm stroke with a 15 mm gudgeon pin ......

The YX 140 is 1P56FMJ ??? and has a 56 mm bore x 57 mm stroke and has a 13 mm gudgeon pin .......

 

[numroe]

Re engine brand: If you are happy with how it runs, shifts and kick starts. Then either engine should be fine. I mean don't worry about it. The carb type and tuning is probably the biggest factor.

Re forks bottoming. No screw adjustment is the proper fix. Even in "real" forks. As well as some good 20wt oil (try shell brand since cheap but good), you can fiddle with two things.
1) Fork oil level: Add more until you cannot bottom it out by hand (assuming you are strong), then add about another 50ml (each leg) and test it on your track. More oil = less air, so the "air spring" effect becomes stiffer. This is the usual fix for bottoming resistance in the bottom of the stroke.
2) Spring pre-load: You can find some suitable steel tubing and make some spacers to pre-load you fork springs more . This will firm up your forks through the entire range of travel and also raise the front by the amount of the spacer height. So if the steering then feels too slow/stable/washy you should raise the rear (spring preload) until the bike is more turn nimble again. I think most cheap pit bikes are too steep/low in the front, so the spacers might help with steering stability too. See how you go.

To change the oil just undo the top caps (carefully), then invert and pump. Measure how much comes out as a reference. Say 250ml comes out. Assume 350ml needs go back in. That's 700ml total. Then with a 1L bottle you have 150ml to spare to "flush" the crap oil out of each fork.

Good luck.

 

[moey23q]

The anodised screws on the front of the handle bars adjusts the shocks you should play arund with them to get the besat they can give you. and also atleast its a 140cc it really doesnt matter unless he told you it was like a yamaha or honda or something like that then you should do something about it. but if i were you i wouldnt worry about it. also try cable tying the fuel tube to the fuel switch as if it is loose it will leak form the sides.
thanks

 

[Kronik Pitster]

Thanks heaps for the responses guys, I really appreciate it.
I will try the 20 wt fork oil and perhaps the spacers.
Do I have to disconnect the the front wheel when I take off the forks, or can I keep the front wheel attached and just lean the forks together to get the oil out? Will any springs pop out on me?
Once I have emptied the fork oil do I just bolt the forks back in and then tip oil in from the top before screwing the cap back on?
ALso, do I just put the spacers in at the top of the forks just under the screw cap? Sorry about all the questions guys,

 

[themountain]

...Do I have to disconnect the the front wheel when I take off the forks, or can I keep the front wheel attached and just lean the forks together to get the oil out? ....,

Do yo want to turn the whole bike around..??? ...take the wheel out, then the forklegs one by one ....will be much easier
The spacer will be put btween the spring and the nut who keeps the spring in place...you will see when you open it!!

 

[numroe]

It takes about 3 mins to drop the front wheel off. Take out each spring, put them somewhere clean, then pump the old oil out of each fork. Put about 100ml in each leg for bit of a flush pump out too.

 

[Kronik Pitster]

Guess what guys, I rode at Broady today and blew the bottom fork seal on the right front fork. Looks like I should have taken your advice before taking those big jumps. I also broke the bottom of the front mud guard as it hit the tyre. Total bummer.... The fork oil pissed out everywhere and the are a few rubber and metal rings now at the bottom of the fork.
How do I put the bottom seals back in?
I'm not sure if this bike is made to hold my weight? (90kg) Maybe I should have bought something bigger?

 

[moey23q]

i recommened you to but new forks that suit your weight.
thanks

 

[thumpking123]

the bikes hold easy 90kg my mate has 4 of them we get 3 ppl on 1 of them and jump his 25 30 footers
and with 2 ppl the lighter 2 of us which is bout 65kg each we do 40 foot and with just him ...86kg to b exact hes done bdv's 70 and not a drama i reccomend tasking it in to a proper pitty shop like i live right near 50shq on gold coast n i have never found anywjere better for our bikes but yea ask them wt they reccomend and ask them to either replce forks with a beefy type of setup like marzocchi replicas or fastace genuines is what i got on myn and theyre invincible or get themm to reinforce tighten and readjust them to suit your needs i got a kx65 reinforced frame and fastace genuine forks and ive ridden it off 30 foot flat drops n no damage i sound like a prick to my bike but every bike we get we compare strength on parts n reliabliity so far out of atomik pitpro orion pitster and i had a january 07 ciniworx ive spent less on pitpro and got more from it so yea good bikes wen u got ur crap done right!!!!

 

[thumpking123]

oh and look on pitpro site they say the max weight holding but they hold like dubble it they just get real low if ur suspensios too low but yea take it to a shop and then ask them to mod out your forks get better seals and 20wt oil in forks hope u get it good

 

[moey23q]

Hi Peoples i have a Xmoto 250cc dirt bike, last week i had changed the clutch because i blew the old one. yesterday when i started my bike and held the clutch in, then hit it into first gear my bike jumped and stalled. i knew that it has to do with the clutch but i dont know how to fix the problem. i adjusted my clutch cable properly, i have tried holding in my clutch as tight as i could but it still didnt work. CAN ANYONE HELP ME PLEASE????
THANK YOU FOR EVERYONE THAT HELPS ME

 

[Kronik Pitster]

I have finally gone ahead and fixed my front forks. I put 20wt oil in and about 6 or 7 spacers under the bolt holding the spring.
One of the forks seems to get tight every now and then but then loosens up.
The suspension seems heaps stronger but I haven't tested it on jumps yet.
I tried tightening the rear spring but now it seems I need to put more air in the canister. Can I just use a compressor? I tried using a hand pump but it isn't working.

Hi 08cooluke, my tank was leaking from the tap and I took it back to the shop.
It seems they just unscrewed the tap and glued it back in. So far no leaks, but I haven't really pushed the bike since the repair yet. Try unscrewing the tap and then putting some tarzan grip around the thread. Then screw it back in and let it dry overnight. Maybe I'm wrong, but it should work.