Proud new owner: Braaap Pro Factory 190 - it is an "Anima"

[Marko R1]

Thanks guys. I'll definitely do a chop.
Yeah I just added it's second tank of fuel.

 

[Marko R1]

Do CRF50, CRF70 or YCF50 plastics fit the Braaap?

 

[my67xr]

I think the CRF50 plastic's do, but might be a bit short for the fender's ?
I can try them on my Braap over the next couple of day's when i get a chance if you want

 

[Marko R1]

Thanks. Post a pic as well

 

[Trains]

Im picking up a factory 190 tomorrow that has a braaap rec reg kit on it. Just wondering if either of you guys would be interested in it?

Sent from my HTC_0P6B6 using Tapatalk

 

[my67xr]

Thank's, but we don't have rec reg here.

 

[china911]

Hey trains is that current model you bought 2015.. if it is would like to know about so called map switch..

 

[motorman]

Mate don't go too nuts on holding back.

My opinion of running them in is do the exact opposite and run them in hard so the rings bed in quicker.

I have done this with both race bikes running 190's (install motor and race to run it lol) without issue.

You gotta give them a bit. Don't be too tentative. They are designed to rev.

 

[my67xr]

Here's what the Pro Factory look's like with the (short/standard fender style) CRF50 plastic's, longer fender's would look better imo.
All bolt's line up except 2 just in front of the seat/frame mount tab, but could easily be heated up with a hot air gun and pushed forward to line up.
The plastic's need to be pushed out a little at the bottom of the tank shroud's to clear the Braaaps' wider frame too.

Before



After, minus crf50 front fender

 

[Georgalis]

Keep the braaap plastics, I reckon they look good

 

[Marko R1]

I agree That the Braaap plastics look best.
I've been flat out as we moved house and I still need to sort out my man cave...I started it yesterday and needed quite a few kicks to start it but no big deal

 

[Marko R1]

what is the best way to wash the bike as it hasnt been washed since new?

 

[my67xr]

CT18 or CT20 truck wash, water a sponge and a hose.
Don't get your air filter wet, plastic bag and a garbage tie work's well, and if using a pressure cleaner try not to hit any area's with bearing's if you can.
Dry the bike off as best you can, used compressed air and a blower if you have one.
You should buy some dielectric / bulb grease and smear it in/on all the electrical connection's on the engine/loom, kill to loom, coil to loom, cdi to loom, coil to frame, loom earth to frame etc etc to stop corrosion from forming and causing headache's later on
Spray any area's you think are likely to corrode with some wd40 or inox but stay away from your brake's obviously.

 

[my67xr]

Any update's on your bike ?

 

[Marko R1]

Not at this stage.
I'm not happy that it's harder to start with the new carby, however, it's a small price to pay with the massive power gains and now I have it down pat with the following method:

1. Choke off
2. Wind in idle to increase idle speed
3. Kick about 5 times until it starts

 

[my67xr]

Just fit the next size up pilot jet, that'll make it easier to start.

 

[Marko R1]

I'll speak to Casey @ dhz to organise