Proud new owner: Braaap Pro Factory 190 - it is an "Anima"

[my67xr]

The mixture screw will need to be adjusted to suit your bike.
Start it and let it warm up, raise the idle speed a bit by turning in the idle speed screw.
Then adjust the mixture screw in until it just start's to run rough, this will be too rich.
Now turn the mixture screw out 1/4 turn at a time, let it settle for 10-15 second's.
As you are adjusting the screw out each time listen to the way the engine is running, you want the mixture screw adjusted so that the engine run's at the highest smoothest rpm.
Turn the mixture screw out another 1/4 and let it settle, keep doing this till it is smooth and at the highest rev's.
Adjust it in or out 1/8th turn when you get it close.
Once you are happy, turn the idle speed screw back out to lower the rev's back to a normal speed.
Then give it a couple of blip rev's to check for a hesitation/stumble, if it's all good take it for a test ride and see how it feel's.
Take note of any hesitation's etc, and at what throttle position it happen's at.

And finally turn the mixture screw right back in (not too tight) and count how many full turn's it was set at, eg 1.5 full turn's out, 1.75 turn's out etc
Then turn the mixture screw back out to where it was again.
This will tell us if the pilot jet is correct size, or if it need's a bigger or smaller pilot jet .
Let us know and we can advise you if it need's rejetting/adjusting etc


When you go on a test ride listen to the way the bike run's, popping and stumbling at wot and the main jetting is too big.
If it get's to a certain point when you hold it at wot and it feel's flat/wont rev any more it is too lean.

You should probably do a plug chop at this point to check the jetting is all good.

 

[Marko R1]

Thanks Craig, you have been extremely helpful
The bike atm runs perfect imo but I will take note of the above signs

How should the plug look when it runs well?

 

[my67xr]

To do a plug chop, you need to warm the bike up and have a couple of ride's.
Then give it a run in 3rd or 4th on a slight incline holding it at wot for 20-30 second's.
Hold the throttle wide open while you hit the kill switch to kill the engine, pull the clutch in and bring the bike to a stop.
Pull the spark plug out straight away and look at the ceramic section near the tip should be a tan/light coffee colour if the jetting is right.

 

[Marko R1]

I started the bike to warm the engine up. Its too rich as u cannot start it with choke on...am I right here so that I know which direction to take? I'll then commence the above procedure per Craig's post.

I checked the air screw position and it's at 1& 5/8 turns from factory.

 

[Marko R1]

When I let the bike idle, I turn the air screw in to 1 turn (as a test) and it starts to bog in (i.e. too rich). I then turn it out beyond the original setting and actually took it out to 3 turns and the revs don't pick up at all, it sounds the same as it would on 2 turns.

The bike rides well and doesn't carry on, smooth and powerful.

When the air screw is adjusted correctly and engine is warm, should the engine stop when u pull the choke on?

If I leave it on 2 turns, I'm hoping I can start it cold with the choke on...on 1 & 5/8 (original setting) I can only start with the choke off and it needs a few kicks

 

[my67xr]

You raised the idle speed before you started playing with the mixture screw didn't you ?

If so, yeah it sound's about right at 2 turn's out.
That would be one of the first carby's that i've heard of that didn't need jetting or need the needle clip to be moved.

What temp is it there today ?

Just need to do a plug chop now.

 

[Marko R1]

Currently it's 26degrees.
I can't figure out though why I can't start it with the choke on? Although that was when it was on 1&5/8 turns.

Hopefully it will start easier on 2 turns when cold

 

[my67xr]

I run mine a touch rich at idle so i don't need the choke even when it is cold.
It shouldn't be needed unless it's about 8° - 10° C or colder

 

[Marko R1]

Ok makes sense.
How many kicks does it take to start your bike?

Also, what Is the easiest way to find TDC in preparation for a kick start?

 

[Marko R1]

Kick start procedure summed up nicely here:https://youtu.be/xeF5N-ByJtE
No choke for mine though

 

[my67xr]

Yeah that's the way to kick start any pit bike or big 4 stroke bike
Push the lever down till it start's to get hard to push, hold the pressure there till you feel it click past tdc,
then let the kickstart lever come back up to the top, and give it a good kick and get your foot off the lever asap.

 

[china911]

I don't start mine on chock either ...(doesn't like it ) l nurse the throttle gently until it warms up .. small bleeps...

 

[liljohn_92]

my bike doesnt need choke to start either unless its really cold outside otherwise it coughs and farts

 

[Marko R1]

Good to know. No more choke

 

[Phil67]

Also, the Braaap sticker kit is designed for the bikes WITHOUT Engi forks, so the fork stickers won;t fit nor do they make a fork sticker for the Engis. So either leave them blank or put on what you have.

 

[Marko R1]

Do you guys prime the engine before starting as I've read that this can work well, or is it just a case of simply kick starting it?

I've pulled the wires out from under the plastics for timing and rev limit as I'm tempted to play with this...any suggestions here for timing or is it a case of trial and error?
How about rev limit - can they take more revs safely?

 

[Marko R1]

Also, the Braaap sticker kit is designed for the bikes WITHOUT Engi forks, so the fork stickers won;t fit nor do they make a fork sticker for the Engis. So either leave them blank or put on what you have.

I've looked at other Braaaps on Google and they have what looks like the right fork guard stickers, have a look at this pic (las Vegas kit like mine):

 

[my67xr]

Do you guys prime the engine before starting as I've read that this can work well, or is it just a case of simply kick starting it?

I've pulled the wires out from under the plastics for timing and rev limit as I'm tempted to play with this...any suggestions here for timing or is it a case of trial and error?
How about rev limit - can they take more revs safely?

No never prime mine, it usually start's first or second kick.

How many hour's do you have on your brand new engine now ?
The cam doesn't make much more power from 9500 rpm and up, so why increase the rpm limit?
The stock limiter come's in at 11,500 rpm.

With the timing, how sure are you that your mixture's are spot on ?
What does your spark plug look like after being pulled out after doing a plug chop ?

 

[Marko R1]

Just over 2 hrs it has now.
I agree with the rev limit...no point if the power won't carry through.
I'm not 100% about the air screw so I'll do this again and increase the idle a bit as suggested.
Haven't done the plug chop as I don't have a local hill where I can hold it wot for 20-30sec, I did however look at the plug and the base is black with a grey/white tip...I didn't take note of the ceramic base colour though.

I think I'll call Casey tomorrow from DHZ to confirm the jet size...I'm sure he said 40 pilot with 125 main.

 

[my67xr]

Just need a slight incline to load it up a little, will work on the flat too.


This is from DHZs' page Keihin PE28

KEIHIN PE28
Main Jet #125(with UNI Air Filter)
Slow Jet #42
Throttle Vavle #3.0
Jet Needle #69414 / 46JFQ (-2 / φ2.505)
Clip position : In the 3rd groove from the top
Air screw 2 return