RevolutionMX TTR-style 155z... The wait is over..

[littlerider9]

Ok, i've spent a little more time with the bike, both engines, and even attempted to ride the thing... I suffered a few issues with the bike, specifically the throttle sticking... spent a lot of time chasing the cause of the problem, and have finally found the issue...

Carby/Throttle Sticking:
I had thought it was the quality of chrome facing on the slide, with a small imperfection maybe catching on the bore of the carby... it wasnt sticking with the engine turned off, only when it was running... and would stick at all different throttle settings.. sometimes just off idle, sometimes wide open... not ideal...
So i smoothed the slide with emery paper, no joy there, tried the throttle housing, throttle cable, leaner jetting, different float heights, all sorts of the usual tricks to sort it out... still no joy...
Then i noticed a slight kink where the cable enters the carb top... Those familiar with OKO's will notice that the 26mm fitted to the TTR155z doesnt have the curved carb cap... but a straight holder....
So i swapped the stock cap for one with a curved cable holder, hey presto, no more sticking throttle... anywhere...
For those with a TTR already, if you click this link OKO Australia - Flatslide Carburettors and scroll down, you can find a few different carb caps... the one you want is part # 3050... and sells for $35 from OKO Australia.. cheap permanent fix...
For those looking at a TTR, Russ has already contacted his suppliers for a solution, and will most definately be sorted with the next shipment of bikes...

Jetting:
Despite being very very specific in what jetting Russ wanted, he was supplied with jetting not really that close to what was ordered...
I opened my 26mm up to find a K#45 pilot jet, K44 needle and a K#112.5 main jet.. After testing a few different jetting combinations, i've found the best jetting for the 155z engine to be a K#40 pilot jet, Needle clip on the second groove from the TOP, and a K#102 main jet. This offered easy starting, great response off idle, strong seamless midrange and a very punchy top end. This jetting combination can be sorted with the spare jets offered with the bike in the spares kit. (Bloody good idea that Russ. Brava!!! )

Clutch "Slipping":
One other issue i noticed, that got progressively worse throughout my attempted "first ride" was that the clutch started slipping, until i was getting no drive whatsoever... so here's me thinking i have a brand new motor with a fried clutch... with less than an hour's running time...
Then i noticed the feel at the lever wasnt quite ''right''... a quick look at it revealed that the grub screw for adjusting reach and free play had rattled out a bit, and was constantly holding the clutch slightly engaged... Wound it back out, hey presto, perfect clutch again...
So for those with TTR's, adjust the little grub screw in the clutch perch until you have your desired freeplay and reach, then loctite the grub screw.... lest you end up with a "slipping" clutch like i did... ha ha ha!!!

Fork Action:
The action of the forks are quite harsh, and pretty stiff.. i'm working on a solution for this, so keep an eye on the thread... at this stage i'm thinking it's oil weight and height, i'll be trying a few different set-ups over the coming week, and will hopefully find a happy medium that will soften up the first part of the stroke, while still retaining bottoming resistance...
I'm thinking lighter weight oil, and lowering the height of it...
anyone beats me to it, post up the results in here asap.

Lots of Win:
On the plus side, i've fitted the OKO28mm from the Bling40, and this has transformed the 175 into a real fire breather up top.. the 26mm offered good punch down low, a strong mid range and top end, but didnt offer the usual sting up top that we've come to expect from the OKO flatties.. the 28mm most definately offered that.. just working on cleaning up the transition through the mid range, once i've found the perfect jetting combination, i'll post them up in here as well...

I cannot fault the action of the rear suspension... this thing hooks up brilliantly, and i was riding in wet sand... usually good for sapping power, especially with a small bike, running a small back tyre, and not a huge amount of power..
I thought the bike was perhaps a bit down on power, until a few guys watching commented on how well the bike was squatting under power, and kicking up a lot of debris behind me punching out of corners... So where i'm used to minis that dont hook up perfectly, so they ''feel'' powerful, due to the fact they're spraying gravel everywhere, the TTR hooks up and drives.. oddly enough, much like jap bikes with linkage rears... imagine that... over rough ground, the rear tracks well, and is a stable little platform... only managed a couple of the smaller jumps (cheers rain, how does f*** off sound for next time????) and the rear handled them well without bottoming, and that was with the shock at the supplied factory setting of both compression, rebound, and preload settings, with a relatively quick old fat bloke weighing 88kg on board... so 95% of riders will love the action of the shock and linkage rear...
I've found both the 155 and 175 to be an absolute cinch to start, although the 175 sounds rattly, a common affliction with Z motors...
The clutch action is brilliant, and feeds the power on nicely, which was a bonus on a wet track with deep sand sections... combined with the linkage rear, it's easy to dial on huge amounts of throttle, and drive out of corners without spraying anyone within 20 feet of you with gravel..

Given this is an entirely "new" model and bike, if the issues outlined above are the only ones to crop up, then i think Russ has done pretty bloody well... Small items such as the above were easily and cheaply fixed, and overall don't detract in the slightest, the great value of the bike, nor the quality... Keep in mind, this is the first batch, and the next lot can only be better again!!!

alright, so me any my 2 mates that bought the bikes went riding on the w.e and got about 2 hours of riding done over 2 days.

on 2 of the bikes teh rear brake stopped working, so we adjusted the little rod that pushes the piston in , was working fine, rode for 10 mins, stopped working again so adjusted it more, 10 mins later same thing, so they just rode with no rear brake.
the rear brake pedal on mine kept grabbing on the engine bolt, locking up the back wheel and stalling the bike, evan after i bent the brake pedal out. maybe use the brake pedals that go under the foot peg on the next set of bikes.

on all 3 of the bikes the throttle was sticking on. i know thump said buy a new curved carb cap but i dnt work and have no money at all, and am still trying to pay off the bike, they should have come with the curved cap in the first place

the clutch on 2 of the bikes jsut randomly only pulls in half way, so you cant change gears or come to a stop. i let it stall, kicked it over and was working fine again, this happen to me about 5 times over the 2 hours, wouldnt want that to happen in a race.

the glue on the airfilters is super shitty, and 2 of the airfilters came apart from the rubber mount, there ment to come with aftermarket uni filters but they still havnt shown up.


the wheel bearings in my front wheel and my mates rear wheel shattered, which ended the ride, which wasnt going so good anyway.

and also i found that the rubber seal in the carb bowl stretched after i took the bowl off about 5 times to change the jets, so had to cut the seal in half and cut about 2mm off it so it would fit.

the smart thing to do would have been to get one bike made and shipped over, assemble it, do some solid riding on it for 2 weeks, find out all the faults and get them fixed so customers arnt left with bikes not working properly.

the good things- bike handles awsome! soaks up every bump nicely. with the forks, i drained teh oil and put 5 weight racing oil in them and they are heaps softer and feel heaps better.

 

[sean01]

can you let us know what sort of riding you were doing?
as for brake problems, this happens if your on muddy tracks alot...
dirt/mud and grit wear the brake pads out, so check how much brake pad is let.. i myself sometimes go thru a set of brake pads in 1 days ride cause i like muddin it up.

as for the other problems, pm or email russ and im sure he'll sort it out for you...
also, these bikes were ordered with the correct carb top but they sent the wrong ones..

 

[pbk]

can you let us know what sort of riding you were doing?
as for brake problems, this happens if your on muddy tracks alot...
dirt/mud and grit wear the brake pads out, so check how much brake pad is let.. i myself sometimes go thru a set of brake pads in 1 days ride cause i like muddin it up.

as for the other problems, pm or email russ and im sure he'll sort it out for you...
also, these bikes were ordered with the correct carb top but they sent the wrong ones..

ive done some crazy mud riding before and my rear brakes have never failed

 

[littlerider9]

can you let us know what sort of riding you were doing?
as for brake problems, this happens if your on muddy tracks alot...
dirt/mud and grit wear the brake pads out, so check how much brake pad is let.. i myself sometimes go thru a set of brake pads in 1 days ride cause i like muddin it up.

as for the other problems, pm or email russ and im sure he'll sort it out for you...
also, these bikes were ordered with the correct carb top but they sent the wrong ones..

was riding it fairly hard, just like i would in a race. wasnt muddy at all, the tracks got fairly soft dirt. plenty of meat left on the pads. i bled the brakes last night with some new fluid and there working so hopefully theyl hold up, wont know till the w.e though.
yeah if they were ment to come with the curved cap i wonder if hel send me one out. and il send him an email and see what hel do about the bearings.

cheers

 

[sean01]

yeah well brakes have been known just to give it up.
you must just have a problem brake setup..

anyways let us know how ya go

oh and another thing, did ya make sure it wasnt brake fade?

 

[topguntravis]

how did you manage to shatter the bearings?

 

[hman]

how did you manage to shatter the bearings?

crap bearings. small things like this and the other problems are why the bikes are cheap.

 

[hman]

alright, so me any my 2 mates that bought the bikes went riding on the w.e and got about 2 hours of riding done over 2 days.

on 2 of the bikes teh rear brake stopped working, so we adjusted the little rod that pushes the piston in , was working fine, rode for 10 mins, stopped working again so adjusted it more, 10 mins later same thing, so they just rode with no rear brake.
the rear brake pedal on mine kept grabbing on the engine bolt, locking up the back wheel and stalling the bike, evan after i bent the brake pedal out. maybe use the brake pedals that go under the foot peg on the next set of bikes.

on all 3 of the bikes the throttle was sticking on. i know thump said buy a new curved carb cap but i dnt work and have no money at all, and am still trying to pay off the bike, they should have come with the curved cap in the first place

the clutch on 2 of the bikes jsut randomly only pulls in half way, so you cant change gears or come to a stop. i let it stall, kicked it over and was working fine again, this happen to me about 5 times over the 2 hours, wouldnt want that to happen in a race.

the glue on the airfilters is super shitty, and 2 of the airfilters came apart from the rubber mount, there ment to come with aftermarket uni filters but they still havnt shown up.


the wheel bearings in my front wheel and my mates rear wheel shattered, which ended the ride, which wasnt going so good anyway.

and also i found that the rubber seal in the carb bowl stretched after i took the bowl off about 5 times to change the jets, so had to cut the seal in half and cut about 2mm off it so it would fit.

the smart thing to do would have been to get one bike made and shipped over, assemble it, do some solid riding on it for 2 weeks, find out all the faults and get them fixed so customers arnt left with bikes not working properly.

the good things- bike handles awsome! soaks up every bump nicely. with the forks, i drained teh oil and put 5 weight racing oil in them and they are heaps softer and feel heaps better.

not a very good start. you would like to think that someone that is trying to revolutionise the pit bike industry would at least have opened the boxes and checked that what they ordered was supplied before shipping them to customers.

 

[Punisher]

Check and mate

Well done dude ... you have delivered what was promised and in the process REVOLUTIONISED the mini mx industry in OZ.

Long live the KING !!!

 

[nicko451]

All them problems are the usual with chinese bikes!

 

[seanisonfire]

Hmm be interesting how thump goes with the bike!! And hopefully the 2nd batch is better.. Bloody chinese workshops can't even follow simple instructions!

 

[oldhack]

These bikes look and sound like they really are the shit!
They are just suffering from the same issues any first batch of bikes could be unlucky enough to cop. Hopefully Russ is all over it and the chinamen are suffering from a good dose of pinapple poisoning (much more effective than a foot up the arse, Think about it) for not supplying what was ordered!
Lets hope the 2nd and 3rd batches are sorted from the start and prove to be the reliable weapons they should be.
oldhack.

 

[jordancurrie]

Yeah i second Oldhack, there's no way you can get anything perfect first time everytime. so lets just wait and see, maybe ill place my order for the 3rd shipment... but still the things that have "gone wrong" ar?n't a MAJOR thing, they are all just little things that don't have a big impact on the overall picture. still the best bang for buck bike around.. can't wait to see what's to come.. someone said a 10"er??? pretty keen to see whats gunna happen there.
________
No2 vaporizer reviews

 

[Peter1230]

thats all just china bike stuff.. brake on china bike are shit.. no matter what you go at some point they will fail.

but its all about setting it up and ironing out the little problems when u get the bikes.. after a month of doing that you are all sweet and will rarely have problems..

my DHZ K1 had some little problems.. nothing that cant be fixed.. and now i havnt had to repair anything on it for the past 3 months.

 

[wogtaz ryder]

I wouldn't say on any china ....

 

[mattbombers]

brake on china bike are shit.. no matter what you go at some point they will fail.

first bit... you can get some very nice brakes for china's, brembo copies are sweet so not all are shit, and the second bit, brakes in cars fail too. so yeah alot of things could have gone wrong which havnt yet so i guess now its just getting the iron out to get rid of these few problems

 

[Peter1230]

do u think there is a china bike which u wouldnt have to do initial set up on?

 

[pbk]

I wouldn't say on any china ....

woggy you had problems with your lxr dont deny it

where saying its shit they all have little problems at the start that you fix... some more than others and clearly when you buy a better bike like your lxr there a very few

and about the brakes i think pete was referring to stock and ive had a few problems with my brake but i cant really prove that its the part or its from me from stacking and dropping the bike ect

 

[Peter1230]

if i had it my way (had the money) i would fit some sort or jap bike brakes to my bike.
Eg some kx 65 brakes.. the stock chinas are not good..

 

[wogtaz ryder]

What am i denying lol.....