RevolutionMX TTR-style 155z... The wait is over..

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Bikes are not perfect aka it's bikes build in China! However the problem that seems to be the same from bike to bile is part chinaman, part RevMX. if the bikes where suppose to be supplyed with this and that, why did no one check this before it was send out? I don't know RevMX back ground but whenever I get something I have ordered, I check and test to see if this is correct and it works!
All that said, there is still many +'s on the bike. Spare part pack, rim lock, many differant jets etc. Some thought have been put into this project and for the price (compaied to PisterPro for example) I think the bike is good!
I have not ridden a meter on mine yet but as everybody should do when they get a chinaman bike, I've taken it apart and fixed the small thinks. No one has mented that the carby intack it not port match with the intake and the adaptor from carby to intake is to long so it creates turbulance in the fuel intake - now you know;) I cut my adaptor down and grinder the intake to match the carby/intake. I'll check the exhaust tonight as there
normally is welding splach so the hole is restricked!

Sorry abot the spelling but I'm doing this from my phone!
 
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good idea london jut cut the adaptor down lol... I was thinking of putting a spacer in there to fill the gap but chopping it sounds like a much better solution.... so does the carby still slot in there right after it's been chopped?
 
yeah alot of ppl are forgetting that an out of tune carb can have the same effects as throttle sticking..

not saying it is or isnt, but how many people that have purchased this bike have actually carb tuned it properly..

maybe something to try is to start the bike without the aircleaner on it and when its idling up by itself see if you can push the throttle slide back down with your finger, if so then maybe a stiffer spring is the solution.

as for the little problem things with the bike, just remember everyone that you have purchased a bike as the chinaman has assembled it
IE:Russ has not done a once over on it..
so it is up to you to go over the bike and double triple check everything on the bike and make sure all the bolts are tight and everything seems to be working fine..

my mate owns a china bike store and he basically refuses to sell bikes in the box unless he can make the customer full awesome that there is absolutely no warranty, as he assembles all his bikes and does a full once over including oil change and changes or fixes anything out of the ordinary

also wanna see how londin's goes compared to everyone else's, he's put the time and effort in to making sure all is sweet. so no really it can only be mechanical/parts failure for any problems (unless of course he has over looked something)
 
what he said ^^^^^^^^^^^^

these bike are in a box and most issue's have been caused by yourselves and you tight ass wallet
yes it is cheaper to buy a bike in a box
but the amount of atomiks i see coming in to ciniworx that have fallen apart in a couple of rides is astronomical
i take a good 2-3 hours to pre deliver a bike costing around the $100 mark and unless you know what your doing it is worth it.
mind you i bought my bike pre delivered and the bearings died after a couple of weeks but thats the shit china ones i put nsk bearings in then and i haven't changed them in well over 18 months

as for the carby's i still stand by the fact that oko's are as crap as the rest of the china carbies spend the extra $50 and buy a keihn......FTW
 
what he said ^^^^^^^^^^^^

these bike are in a box and most issue's have been caused by yourselves and you tight ass wallet
yes it is cheaper to buy a bike in a box
but the amount of atomiks i see coming in to ciniworx that have fallen apart in a couple of rides is astronomical
i take a good 2-3 hours to pre deliver a bike costing around the $100 mark and unless you know what your doing it is worth it.
mind you i bought my bike pre delivered and the bearings died after a couple of weeks but thats the shit china ones i put nsk bearings in then and i haven't changed them in well over 18 months

as for the carby's i still stand by the fact that oko's are as crap as the rest of the china carbies spend the extra $50 and buy a keihn......FTW
 
good idea london jut cut the adaptor down lol... I was thinking of putting a spacer in there to fill the gap but chopping it sounds like a much better solution.... so does the carby still slot in there right after it's been chopped?

This showes app how much I cut off. The carby still sits very firm - could shake the bike with the carby!

vbpgimage.php
 
Looked at my bike in regards to the rear break!

The bushing (red circle) is fairly loose, and the break arm is only 2mm ( or so) thick. When you break, the break pedal comes below the kick starter, and if it bends out, it could get caught and jam( Green circle)!
If you have bend the pedal out because it was rubbing it could even more likely be the case!

Just my 2cent!

Not sure this is what had happened, but can see that it's possible!

vbpgimage.php
 
By the way, exhaust was all good, no problems there, except there was no spring washer behind the nuts, so could imagine the nuts come loose fairly easy if not fitted!
 
Ok time i went in to bat for the REVMX bike, and for Russ... i'm getting the impression that a lot of these "problems" are caused by deadshit owners who bought a china, and didnt do the spanner work before taking it out for a trash, busted something, and blamed Russ...
thats all just china bike stuff.. brake on china bike are shit.. no matter what you go at some point they will fail.

but its all about setting it up and ironing out the little problems when u get the bikes.. after a month of doing that you are all sweet and will rarely have problems..
.
Brakes on china bikes arent shit... a lot of china brakes are great... tried nose wheelieing the Revmx? 1 finger is all it takes to go over the bars...
What IS shit, is the fluid and pads that come stock in ALL china brake systems... bleed and feed, they're great... no more boiling, no more fading...
The RevMX bike is proof in the pudding that no matter how many times you slap a chinaman with an OKO parts catalogue, they dont put on, what you specify... brake systems included...
alright, so me any my 2 mates that bought the bikes went riding on the w.e and got about 2 hours of riding done over 2 days.

on 2 of the bikes teh rear brake stopped working, so we adjusted the little rod that pushes the piston in , was working fine, rode for 10 mins, stopped working again so adjusted it more, 10 mins later same thing, so they just rode with no rear brake.
the rear brake pedal on mine kept grabbing on the engine bolt, locking up the back wheel and stalling the bike, evan after i bent the brake pedal out. maybe use the brake pedals that go under the foot peg on the next set of bikes.

on all 3 of the bikes the throttle was sticking on. i know thump said buy a new curved carb cap but i dnt work and have no money at all, and am still trying to pay off the bike, they should have come with the curved cap in the first place

the clutch on 2 of the bikes jsut randomly only pulls in half way, so you cant change gears or come to a stop. i let it stall, kicked it over and was working fine again, this happen to me about 5 times over the 2 hours, wouldnt want that to happen in a race.

the wheel bearings in my front wheel and my mates rear wheel shattered, which ended the ride, which wasnt going so good anyway.

and also i found that the rubber seal in the carb bowl stretched after i took the bowl off about 5 times to change the jets, so had to cut the seal in half and cut about 2mm off it so it would fit.

the smart thing to do would have been to get one bike made and shipped over, assemble it, do some solid riding on it for 2 weeks, find out all the faults and get them fixed so customers arnt left with bikes not working properly.

the good things- bike handles awsome! soaks up every bump nicely. with the forks, i drained teh oil and put 5 weight racing oil in them and they are heaps softer and feel heaps better.
Fading brakes like what you have described, sounds like air in the system... like i said above, bleed and feed the system COMPLETELY with new fluid... same as ANY other china bike you buy... i reckon you're brakes will be like brand new...
Have you loctited the small grub screw on the clutch perch that is used for adjusting reach? that seems to effect the clutch at the lever end, with the same results you have mentioned... There was mention of the clutch castle nut working loose on the HO engines as well, elsewhere within the forum...
Wheel bearings, these things happen... did the same thing to my 99 YZF400 two weeks after i got it... and that was a 10k jap mxer... supposedly state of the art...
The rubber seal on the carb float bowl is the same as any other, you get petrol on them, they expand... i've got 14 bikes in my shed, all of them have done the same thing when tuning the jetting... some running oko's, some fakunis, some running $500 Jap carbs... all stretched...
I was involved in specifying parts for the TTR, and i can say with confidence Russ specified OKO K#103, which is the "curved cap model"..... Not what was supplied... Same as the jetting, K37/K97 jetting combo was EPICALLY STAMPED OUT, and we got nothing close...
as for the rear brake lever, if you take it off, grind a bit of an angle where it comes near contact to that nuisance engine bolt, it doesnt catch or stall the bike out anymore... the other thing is, if yours is stalling your bike, you have your brakes set up VERY high... mine was set pretty neutral, would still drag before i fixed it, but wouldnt stop the bike...
What am i denying lol.....
Being a homo woggy... bit late now mate...
 
yeah alot of ppl are forgetting that an out of tune carb can have the same effects as throttle sticking..

not saying it is or isnt, but how many people that have purchased this bike have actually carb tuned it properly..

maybe something to try is to start the bike without the aircleaner on it and when its idling up by itself see if you can push the throttle slide back down with your finger, if so then maybe a stiffer spring is the solution.

also wanna see how londin's goes compared to everyone else's, he's put the time and effort in to making sure all is sweet. so no really it can only be mechanical/parts failure for any problems (unless of course he has over looked something)
*puts hand up*
I tuned mine properly. :D heh heh.. jetted to perfection, little issues ironed out, everything greased, aligned, loctited etc etc before i rode it...
Guess what.. nothing came off, ran perfectly aside from the sticky throttle, which has been identified on most of the bikes... Hellrazor hasnt had an issue with his yet...
And yes, with the filter off, you can see the slide sticking, you can push it down at idle.. as you stated sean, a stiffer spring, or leaner jetting will sort it... Too rich a main jet also creates raw fuel pooling in the slide and throat... which makes for sticky slides.. it's called surface tension, and works with fuel as well as water... :)
So far, the only mechanical failures i've had, have been the fuel cap, sticky throttle, and brake lever catching...
New brake fluid before the bike was ridden, loctite where it's needed, lube and grease where it's needed, and i'll bet my bike has done a lot more hours than anyone elses so far without any other issues cropping up... no kickstart gear issues, no clutch issues, nothing falling off issues, no fading brake issues... imagine that.. ;)
what he said ^^^^^^^^^^^^

these bike are in a box and most issue's have been caused by yourselves and you tight ass wallet
yes it is cheaper to buy a bike in a box
but the amount of atomiks i see coming in to ciniworx that have fallen apart in a couple of rides is astronomical
i take a good 2-3 hours to pre deliver a bike costing around the $100 mark and unless you know what your doing it is worth it.
mind you i bought my bike pre delivered and the bearings died after a couple of weeks but thats the shit china ones i put nsk bearings in then and i haven't changed them in well over 18 months

as for the carby's i still stand by the fact that oko's are as crap as the rest of the china carbies spend the extra $50 and buy a keihn......FTW
agreed coolee, put the spannertime in BEFORE you ride it, the bike will last... same with any other bike china OR jap... havent owned a Jap bike that didnt require set up and greasing and loctiting, a decent filter, bars, levers and chain and sprocket combo straight out the box either...

ps: now you arent number 1 jammer no more, i can say that you sir, are a homo, should man up, and buy an OKO 26 for your 175... :p
come on mate, come to the dark side, we have candy.... :D
 
yep a LOT of very experienced pitbikers would disagree with you there coolie....
And what happened to MOLKT FTW??? finally realized they're shit? :p

sure keihin's are the shit but OKO's are pretty fuken good too... any monkey with a screwdriver can tune a 26mm oko flatty.... and they outperform fakuni's and molkts all day long
Good lad Rip, i reckon me and Sean01 probably rate as the OKO kings, and i reckon we got some OKO's tuned just as well as any keihin... :)
you make a good point, that they're bloody good carbies, the thing to keep in mind, is that these ARE CHEAP PARTS, and for the price, offer better performance than any other carby out there...
Hes scared of the flatslide ;) .
Fear the Flatslide, for they are King woggy.... :)
For the price the oko's are brilliant compared to the orig keihins.

think some one said earlier in the thread that the oko that comes on these bikes are a cheaper/shitter model??
No, these are the same OKO's that you can buy from DHZ, sans the curved cable cap... The cheaper shittier OKO's have round head jets, "duller" alloy, and a shallower float bowl... these are the K103 OKO, with deeper float bowl, and hex head main jets...
pete are you some sort of ****ing deadshit or somthing

the only reason i mentioned ciniworx not ebay is because there the shop that i go to that fix's the ****ing things because there are deadshits like yourself buy cheap shit bikes and dont put them together properly

for **** sake the point i was making has also been made by the people above

and the ciniworx bikes are the be all to end all the pitster pro are up there and these rev mx things are as good for the right price

****

Ciniworx are good coolee, but the Revmx doesnt have star spangled banner graphics... he he he!!!!
Time a Cini and a Revmx went head to head lap to lap i reckon. :D
 
ps: now you arent number 1 jammer no more, i can say that you sir, are a homo, should man up, and buy an OKO 26 for your 175... :p
come on mate, come to the dark side, we have candy.... :D

HAHAHA. Still say's number 1 jammer under his name. Ban this trouble maker Joel!! :lsvader:
 
hey for all you guys having trouble with wheel bearings you might want to double check your internal spacer in the hub as if it is 2to 5 mm to big or small wen u tighten your wheels right up you will blow bearings all the time even just riding on the flat it is a comen problem with the cnc hubs that i have noticed
 
any decent brand name dot 3 or 4 brake fluid is fine..

and for the spacer you have to measure it..
leave one bearing in the hub and measure internally to the inside edge of where the other bearing sits..
the axle tube has to be pretty much spot on to get long life out of the bearings..
 
if russ ordered the bikes to be built with specific parts... who is responsible for replacing them? us, russ, or chinamen? lol
 
unfortunately Russ.

the chinamen may cut him a little deal on the next order but i wouldnt count on it...
 
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