Atomik Reign, Lifan 150, Big Foot questions

[user 21036]

I've ordered a new jet, It's like I can't get the blockage out... Should be here by Wednesday I hope (If DHZ is in melbourne not sydney)
I'll do a plug chop, Hopefully I can still do one even though it still bogs down on quick throttle...

Once i've done it and shut it off clutch in, Do I need to check it quickly or am I fine to push it all the way home then check it?

 

[my67xr]

take a spark plug spanner with you, and a rag cause it'll be hot

 

[user 21036]

The jet should be here tomorrow, hoping it would have turned up today
When I save up enough dosh i'll buy a new chain & sprockets. Would I be running #428 chain/sprockets?

I checked and i've got a 41T Read Sprocket and I counted a 15T on the front?
Either way with 4 gears it feels like I don't have enough top and and first gear feels way to short (Maybe because it's really my first ever motorbike?)

Now I can't logically work it out so, If I change the teeth on the sprockets, will it put a bigger gap between the gears or will the gap between each gear stay the same?

 

[my67xr]

no it wont change the gap between gears,
but it will change the speed you can get out of each gear., you'll get a bit more top speed.
i would try a 16T front sprocket first though, then maybe try a 17T, around $10 ea inc delivery on ebay
measure the thickness of the sprocket, or look for a marking on them 420 or 428

 

[user 21036]

Hey guys, Going camping next weekend i'm stoked First time i'll ever be able to ride apart from the 20 metre dirt patch around the corner.

I find that my bike grabs in first and a bit in second even with the clutch all the way in when it's not running... I'm hoping this is just a poorly adjust clutch cable or is it something more?

Eg, I did a plug shop clutch in and kill the engine, It was fine in 4th and 3rd but as soon as I went down to second I just totally locked up the back wheel and to get back down to first I had to let go of the clutch, rock it foward a bit and then I was able to shift down?

I don't think I have any of these problems when the bikes running so does anybody have any ideas?

 

[my67xr]

maybe try winding the adjuster at your lever out a bit and try that

 

[user 21036]

Thanks craig, I tried winding it out all of the way and it still made no difference.... If I pull off the clutch cover how easily will I be able to tell what the issue is? Will I have to tear into the clutch or will I most likely be able to locate the issue without too much trouble?

 

[my67xr]

ok,
with it adjusted right out, does it disengage the clutch in 1st, 2nd then ?
have you adjusted your clutch lever to suit you ?
with them further from the bars they pull the cable a bit more too.

if not, it might have a stretched cable ?
you'd need to take yours off the bike and measure the outer casing, and then measure the inner cable length
you might be able to compare it with measurements some seller on ebay list?

 

[Blender]

do you have an adjuster further down the cable ? if so, try adjusting that out, and locking it up again

 

[user 21036]

[video]https://www.dropbox.com/s/gg21y0hgpl5svar/Video%2014-04-2014%204%2041%2001%20pm.mov[/video]


^^^ Lever is getting pretty hard to pull, I always thought they were pretty slack usually?

 

[my67xr]

ok, there is a heap of adjustment down the bottom of the cable still
back the adjuster at the bars right off
then loosen that nut on the clutch arm side of the cable bracket on the engine, then tighten the nut on the head side of the bracket to take up the slack.

looks like it was never adjusted properly since new.

 

[user 21036]

Probably wasn't, Wouldn't be surprised if it was still on stock chinese oil...

So screw all the way in on the bar, Loosen off clutch arm side nut, Tighten head side nut.

Then do the the bar lever one again?

 

[Blender]

you want around 3-5mm of freeplay on your lever, if you dont have any freeplay you could be riding with your clutch engaged, which'll wear out your clutch plates in no time.

i would also change the oil to some 10-40w non synthetic 4 stroke oil.

 

[user 21036]

Hmmm... It engages really quickly how it is now, And then a full lever stroke doesn't help it much more.
If I take off the clutch cover will I be able to take a closer look to see where it engages?

If I let go of the clutch slowly enough in first with no throttle i can roll foward on flats and slight uphills and not stall while it's idling

The only 10W-40 Oil that Super Cheap has is $60 per 5 litre motorbike specific oil... I'd rather spend that $60 on a brand new clutch I think

Dad's got some 10W-40 in the shed but it's Magnatec, Is that no good? Can it be semi-synthetic or does it have to be mineral?

 

[user 21036]

I'm going to drain the oil and replace it with new 15-40 (Until I find some cheap 10-40) Anything specific I need to look for while I tear off the clutch cover?

I'm just interested in seeing if I have a rounded off kickstart gear

 

[my67xr]

just a couple of things to watch for,
on the inside of the big circular cover, there is a small pusher rod, this pushes against the clutch bearing, make sure it is still there, and hasn't fallen out.

the other thing,
towards the front of engine is the small crank gear, in the end of the shaft there is a small tube and spring.
don't lose them either, they direct the oil into the oil filter

look in the oil filter screen for any chunks of metal, same in the bottom of the cases

at the back of the clutch basket, there is a big gear
hold the whole clutch and try wobbling the gear left to right, and up and down
check that the big gear is not loose to the clutch basket.
and then pull the clutch in and out on the shaft to see if it has play that way too.


another thing to look at is the condition of the kickstart gears, and whether they are chipped, worn out etc

 

[user 21036]

Thanks i'll do that, I looked at a video of someones clutch and it seems so easy to pull, With the way mine was it looks to be so much harder than everybody elses (I need 2 fingers to pull it in, and he could easily pull his in with 1 finger

 

[my67xr]

does you clutch cable inner move freely inside the outer casing ?
if not take it off, and hang it from one end, spray some Inox or wd40 etc into the top where the inner cable is.
keep doing it every now and then and let it seep down through the outer.
when it starts dripping out the bottom of the cable it will be good to use

 

[user 21036]

I am having lots of trouble removing the kickstarter... I've tried pulling and softly tapping with a rubber mallet but it's hard to get to.
Is there a certain trick, Or can I try and angle a long screwdriver from the other side and tap it with the mallet?

I've taken the clutch cable out and measure it to be 102cm?
Maybe I should go to the atomik dealer and buy a new one as it looks pretty worn and the outer plastic case is cracking a bit

 

[my67xr]

if you can find a thick flat head screwdriver and a hammer,
tap it gently into the slot to spread it apart enough to be able to slide it off