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Is the DHZ billet throttle worth $68?, or should i just get the normal throttle assembly for $27?
 
I've got a problem with my old gen 155z, when i switch from second to third sometimes it goes into neutral and if i kick it down it goes back into second. Is this a problem with the clutch or gear box, also does the new daytona 6 plate clutch for the 160ho fit in the old 155z?
 
That's called a false neutral, I believe it's due to the shims they have in the gear selector shaft. Not sure how much it is to fix, maybe one of the other boys can help you with that one!
 
I've got a problem with my old gen 155z, when i switch from second to third sometimes it goes into neutral and if i kick it down it goes back into second. Is this a problem with the clutch or gear box, also does the new daytona 6 plate clutch for the 160ho fit in the old 155z?

You can deepen the shift star a little, it's known to improve that. I've tried new selector forks, new shift drum, new this, new that, stupid false neutral. I find it dangerous coming into a high speed corner and finding neutral unexpectedly. I have noticed using 10w40 oil improves it out of sight though over 15w50, weird. You can also see if your selector bolt is loose. It's under the ignition cover, should be a rubber plug inside, take that out and there is a 10mm bolt, if it's loose, you will get these issues too. Tighten it, then make sure it returns about 1/4 on the spring back.
 
My false neutrals were laziness, I dropped the gear lever a couple of teeth on the spline as the lever was a tad high and my lazy foot wasn't pulling it up enough to fully engage, but now I rarely if ever get a falsie.
 
I think Mick is on the money we was having trouble on my braaap with false neutrals every now and then and i moved the lever down a bit and no dramas since touchwood :lol_hitting:
 
If i buy one now and later upgrade to the V2 Race Head will i have to change the piston?
 
If i buy one now and later upgrade to the V2 Race Head will i have to change the piston?

I've got the TB hi comp piston in mine, so later if i get a V2 it will be the correct piston for it. Just get the Tb piston now and go up in main jets about 10. I went from a 95 to a 107.5, but I reckon I could go 110 easily. Can I notice a difference? Not really, except that it is tuned much better now, no flat spots, pulls from 0 - 1,000,000 rpm easier i suppose. If i fan the clutch outta a corner it's instantly at full noise. Plus a TB piston is like 60 bucks and 10 bucks or so for jets, plus you get a cool sticker.
 
Yeah mate, I have always used one. They catch heavy metal sludge and prevent it resting on the cases inside your engine, good for catching small flaky metal from wear and tear.
 
I just tried doing my valves and i don't know what i done but the bike has lost all its compression??, this is my first time trying to do valves so i doubt i did them properly. What have i done wrong and how do i do valves properly?
 
The cam was at TDC but the flywheel was a little off, i was trying to set the clearances to .003 and .004 but i doubt i even done it right, i just stuck the gauge wherever and tighten it.
 
i was trying to set the clearances to .003 and .004 but i doubt i even done it right, i just stuck the gauge wherever and tighten it.

Your funny dude, your attention to detail is exceptional. Im sure you did them right. When you say the flywheel was a little off , how much is a little mate?
 
10mm is heaps, so when you had the camsprocket notch at 9oclock, the flywheel T was not completely at 12oclock
 
Yup, i couldn't get the flywheel at 12 but i could get the cam at 9, also when i unscrewed the square headed thing the valve was pushing up and didn't make any space for the feeler gauge.
 
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