Proud new owner: Braaap Pro Factory 190 - it is an "Anima"

[mikkh]

What about using PDS rear shock on Braap to cure the rear end issues?

Is the Daytona engine made in the Zongshen factory if I remember correctly?

Those Braap pro factory 190 front forks should be same Zhenling ones as Pitsterpro, Motovert etc if I remember correctly?

 

[Marko R1]

Depending on where you're riding and what it's on, eg rocky area's, compacted dirt, sand etc somewhere between 15 psi and 18 psi

Forgot to mention, you're best off getting a new chain too, i bought a new DID 420 NZ3 (gold bling) for about $75, or you can use the cheaper DID H/Duty one that's around $30

Ok I'll upgrade my chain otherwise I'm sure in time I'll chew out my sprockets.
Are there any other required upgrades I should take on-board? Is the unifilter up for the task? I noticed that ycf also make a nice Air filter...I do like the oem airbox as well though as it's a tidy setup

 

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

What about using PDS rear shock on Braap to cure the rear end issues?

Is the Daytona engine made in the Zongshen factory if I remember correctly?

Those Braap pro factory 190 front forks should be same Zhenling ones as Pitsterpro, Motovert etc if I remember correctly?

Front forks are engi's, and given they slap the japanese sticker in their brand name I would guess they are jap made, Daytona have chinese factorys but are japanese owned from my understanding..

 

[china911]

l will possibly try to refit the original air box for winter riding.. The air filter pod gets water logged in the high altitude winter conditions ..The slip over socks look untidy ... if running the pe 28 it will need some slip on boot to marry into the oem air box.. l am looking at some rubber plumbing sleeves to clamp it all together..

 

[Marko R1]

l will possibly try to refit the original air box for winter riding.. The air filter pod gets water logged in the high altitude winter conditions ..The slip over socks look untidy ... if running the pe 28 it will need some slip on boot to marry into the oem air box.. l am looking at some rubber plumbing sleeves to clamp it all together..

is it advantageous to run an air filter over the oem airbox in terms of power gains?

 

[my67xr]

The airbox is more of a restriction, but it has it's advantage's in the wet muddy weather too.

 

[rotn50]

Ride it like you stole it BUT....if you do not let the bike cool down for atleast 30 to 40 mins after each ride(ride for no longer than 30mins) for atleast a couple of tanks you can and most times will be up for a top end rebuild. After the couple of tanks go to dinner on it and thrash it. And always remember that a run in engine does not mean you are out of the woods......you will start to hear the engine internals become louder if the oil is getting beyond its viscosity or boiling, you will also start to smell the oil as it gets to this point, even loss of oil through the crankcase breather(like a garden hose on full)is quite easy to do through excessive heat, justa few things to beaware of.

 

[Marko R1]

Ride it like you stole it BUT....if you do not let the bike cool down for atleast 30 to 40 mins after each ride(ride for no longer than 30mins) for atleast a couple of tanks you can and most times will be up for a top end rebuild. After the couple of tanks go to dinner on it and thrash it. And always remember that a run in engine does not mean you are out of the woods......you will start to hear the engine internals become louder if the oil is getting beyond its viscosity or boiling, you will also start to smell the oil as it gets to this point, even loss of oil through the crankcase breather(like a garden hose on full)is quite easy to do through excessive heat, justa few things to beaware of.

Thanks for the advice.
I adjusted the rear brake & now it has 1 hour on it - initially it was hard and tight to kick over & now the engine has loosened up a bit - 1st kick it started!
The run in oil has darkened a bit so its bedding in nicely. When should I dump the run in oil & run semi synthetic, after a couple of tanks or 1 tank?

Also, what is the slot for on the front number plate? I removed the stickers so now its the 'ghostrider' - still undecided on what sticker kit so order hence any suggestions are welcome.

 

[china911]

You may of found TDC .. l doubt the engine has loosened up.. don't kick it over to fast as the decomp spring is pissy and don't return fast enough ..

Just run mineral base oil ... and change regularly.. l change mine every 3/4 hours and completely flush the engine and oil cooler with compressed air.
These things love to heat up..

Clean (if reusable ) or change oil filter and clean screen to the left hand side of crankcase ....

As craig said super cheap Castrol active 4t is 15w /40 is a decent drop..

 

[Marko R1]

Ok. I was Going to change the run in oil but if I should leave it for 3-4 hrs will then so be it

I've got many questions to ask...with regards to timing and REV limit settings, what works best for the Anima?

 

[my67xr]

Stick with the stock setting's with timing and rev limit for the moment.
Change the oil when the colour change's.
There is also another oil filter on the left side of the engine like China911 mentioned
And an oil strainer in the engine case at the front directly above the oil drain plug, need's side cover taken off to clean that one though.

After a couple of ride's the valve's will seat a bit too, this will make the valve clearance's tighter, and also make's it easier to start.
Check and adjust the clearance's asap before it start's doing damage.

I'd stick with mineral oil for at least the first 2 to 3 tank's of fuel.
I'm not sure if motorman is using synthetic or semi synthetic is his ?
He might have something to add

 

[Marko R1]

I took out the oil filter on the right side (above the filler plug) and it is the oem filter. I will change this oil filter when I change the oil - is there a reusable filter available or best off sticking with the stock paper filter?

Can I adjust the valve clearance with a filler gauge? I've pulled down engines a number of times but never played with valve clearance...

 

[my67xr]

Yeah after you take the rocker cover off, you need a 9mm spanner, a pair of plier's, and some feeler gauge's .005" to .007" depending on how you want to set them up.
Do them at tdc on the compression stroke, cold engine

 

[china911]

Depending how much money you have ... Paper is always better ,but a $20 odd dollars it gets expensive ..

l use a reusable metal mesh lifan 150 filter . Under $ 20 l change regularly so it doesn't concern me that much.

l use stainless filters on all my bikes with good results

l have to invest in an magnetic sump plug for added filtering..

 

[Marko R1]

I took the cover off and had a look.
How do I know when I'm at TDC? is there a marking somewhere on the timing chain pulley? Also, is it easier to adjust valve clearances with spark plug out? I can crank the engine so I guess it don't matter

 

[liljohn_92]

if you watch the cam you can tell when your at tdc. about half a rotation of the crank(1/4 rotation of the cam) after the intake valves close is tdc on compression stroke. at a guess the cam sprockt should be in the same position as the pic my67xr put up. taking the plug out makes it easier for you to rotate by hand so you can watch what the cam is doing at the same time.

 

[my67xr]

There are 2x marking's on the cam gear, one will be facing forward when the T marking on the flywheel is at 12 o'clock
Then check the rocker's can be moved a little, the rocker's wont move if you turn the flywheel a little each way at tdc on the compression stroke.

 

[Marko R1]

Valve clearances are done, I took an average and set them at 0.06. They are actually pretty close but I reset them.

 

[china911]

Did you set them at 0.06 or .006 ?? and did you adjust both inlet and exhaust the same?

 

[Marko R1]

Did you set them at 0.06 or .006 ?? and did you adjust both inlet and exhaust the same?

I set the intake and exhaust @ 0.06mm.
The daytona manual suggests between 0.05 and 0.07.

I've got a leak in the front tyre, is it as easy as buying a puncture kit and repairing like a bmx?