Proud new owner: Braaap Pro Factory 190 - it is an "Anima"

[my67xr]

If you get the PE28 you'll have to fit it and try it out so see if it need's rejetting, it's not that hard to do if it does.
If they aren't too far from you then that's good if you need jet's.

My bike is pretty loose with the PWK28,
sometime's you just touch the throttle on a bump and the front wheel come's up in the air.
I found this out late last year going slowly over some whoop's, and ended up coming off with 4 broken rib's and a punctured lung, but you live and you learn

 

[Marko R1]

The PWK definately have more punch than then the PE's. Deliver different power curves.

Chris's 190 with PWK is an animal. They are an absolute pain in the ass to tune though compared to the PE.

You will definately need to tune your PE. Won't be close out of the box. For memory I have a 40 pilot and 125 main and that works well for me.

thanks for the info - i looked at their website & both the PWK & PE run 42 slow jet with 125 main jet so it sounds close to your setup:
KEIHIN | PE28 Race Carburetor | Buy Online Australia at DHZ
KEIHIN | PWK33 Race Carburetor Kit, Made in Japan | Buy Online Australia at DHZ

the PWK is $330 whereas the PE is $200 - huge price difference.
i then noticed on ebay that the PE is available for ~$50...i assume these are not genuine at that price lol?

 

[Marko R1]

If you get the PE28 you'll have to fit it and try it out so see if it need's rejetting, it's not that hard to do if it does.
If they aren't too far from you then that's good if you need jet's.

My bike is pretty loose with the PWK28,
sometime's you just touch the throttle on a bump and the front wheel come's up in the air.
I found this out late last year going slowly over some whoop's, and ended up coming off with 4 broken rib's and a punctured lung, but you live and you learn

sorry to hear what gear were you in?

 

[my67xr]

It was my fault, don't be sorry.
That day it was warm and very sandy/loose in the arvo so i was just going over them slow, about 5km/h and i must have pulled on the throttle a bit as i was going up over the whoop, i was in 1st gear, lol.
The doctor's at hospital said i would have been ok if i hit the whoop's doing 100 km/h then i would have got thrown off and rolled, got up and dust myself off and i'd be fine.
Those same whoop's get closed off/bypassed on the MX race day's by the big bike's sometime's cause they are a bit dodgy.


Both the carby's i use/d were a lot cheaper than that, Polini PWK28 cost me $80 and the Oko 30mm was about $75 iirc.

Not many people have been able to tune the PWK33 to suit their bike here


And manifold wise, just use the one on your bike now, it's the longest one available and is the best one for engine's that'll be up in the mid to high end rev's most of the time.

 

[Marko R1]

in that case i wont bother with the PWK - i can see the tuning will drive me nuts.
the other manifold which DHZ recommended has a much larger ID hence wouldn't that be better? when u take into consideration the total length including the black adapter (per pic which i uploaded on the last page) the overall length is approx the same as the OEM manifold...DHZ explained it would make a difference & its only an extra $20 - whatever is better for the bike is the path i want to take - keen to hear your thoughts on ID?

 

[my67xr]

The factory YCF/Braap 190 manifold on your bike is 30mm i/d, same i/d as the shorter manifold DHZ sell's.
The PE28 kit from DHZ come's with the short manifold and the rubber adapter for $200 the lot- DHZ PE28 kit

It mention's in the details for that kit too, that it won't fit the Daytona 190 ?
But i'm pretty sure it does, the shorter manifold also turn's the carby outward's a little away from the frame

 

[Marko R1]

The factory YCF/Braap 190 manifold on your bike is 29mm i/d, same i/d as the shorter manifold DHZ sell's.
The PE28 kit from DHZ come's with the short manifold and the rubber adapter for $200 the lot- DHZ PE28 kit

It mention's in the details for that kit too, that it won't fit the Daytona 190 ?

that is correct as the manifold in the kit does not work for the 190, however, the manifold recommended is larger & not part of the kit that DHZ sells - here is the pic (has a funny hump on it):



this manifold has a substantially larger ID than the OEM manifold - would that be better for the bike?

 

[my67xr]

I'm pretty sure it's the one that come's with the kit.
Here is the one i have, it's got a 30mm bore


I just took the YCF/Braap manifold off my 190, and it has a 28mm bore which taper's out to 30mm bore where it meet's the head, so i was wrong there sorry.
But there isn't any real advantage running a shorter manifold, and one that is 2mm bigger bore than the carbys' bore.
The bulge on the side is so it can be machined to accept a fuel injector, apparently there will be a Daytona fuel injection kit coming out soon? not sure when.

Factory YCF/Braap manifold on top, Keihin/DHZ manifold on bottom




Factory YCF/Braap manifold on left, Keihin/DHZ manifold on right

 

[Marko R1]

if the manifold bore is larger than the outlet bore on the PE28, there would be no advantage & if anything it would be worse as the flow would potentially hit the edge of the PE28 outlet - do u know what is the ID on the PE28 outlet side?

actually, the air would travel from a smaller ID (i.e. carby) to a larger ID (i.e. manifold) so it wouldnt be as much of an issue - sounds like there is no advantage though running the larger manifold

 

[my67xr]

Yeah the PE28 is 28mm i/d on the intake manifold side, so with a 30mm manifold it will cause a slight pressure drop in the air/fuel mixture as it goes into the manifold
At least the manifold you already have is slightly tapered (2mm) instead of being stepped so that won't disrupt the flow of the mixture as much.

 

[Marko R1]

ok - i'l stick with the oem manifold - i wont have issues with clearance so im happy

i managed to do my first oil change, replaced the oil filter & also cleaned the strainer which was spotless, also fitted the magnetic sump plug. ive added 700ml as per manual & it does look a bit over filled but once i start it, it should come down after it runs thru the oil filter.

i applied the sticker kit & without the hair dryer it would be difficult - it was my saviour.
i noticed that the fork guard stickers are the wrong shape so i'll have to exchange for the right model sticker.

here are some pics (not sure if i'll add the rear swingarm stickers as i dont want to cover the oem caution stickers), i've always been a fan of the australian flag on race cars & bikes:

 

[Marko R1]

I had a chat with Braaap and they can supply a PWK30 - it is a copy but they did say that they are getting good results with these & they can't seem to see the difference between the PWK30 & PE28...which would you guys recommend here?

As most of you recommend the PWK as it has more punch, im more inclined to go this way
They told me that the PWK33 is a nightmare to tune so i'll stay away from that - its just a case of what is better, the PWK28 or PWK30 (or the genuine PE28)?

 

[Marko R1]

I dropped in at DHZ and had a good chat with Casey, he has been around for a long time and definitely knows his stuff.

He told me that the PE28 is the ducks guts and although he stocks OKO & PWK , he still swears that PE28 is the benchmark for outright power and smooth delivery.

He has dyno'd this carby with his other brands and says that the PE28 makes more power throughout which is why he only uses it on his race bike.

Being a round slide carby is why it is smooth in delivery, whereas, he explained that the PWK is a flat slide carby which gives the impression that it makes more power and feels punchier as the power snaps in aggressively, kinda like an on/off switch thus makes it harder to ride.

From my perspective, the engine is worth $1400 so I'd never want to fit a copy carby, I'd rather genuine for insurance.

I'll fit it up and let you guys know what I think

 

[Marko R1]

I've fitted the pe28 and unifilter...can't start it. Spark plug is not wet, what else can I check? I've got the choke on as well

 

[Marko R1]

The process I followed was as follows:
- removed oem carby
- installed pe28 carby, fed the throttle cable through the top & checked the round slide, it definitely has a gap when closed approx 1mm & also opens on full throttle
- connected the fuel line & 2 clear overflow lines
- turn on choke with kill switch in off position

no luck - i did hear a pop which sound like it came from the stator but maybe it backfired thru the unifilter.

i oiled the unifilter so maybe i oiled it too much? i dont think so though.
i also pulled out the spark plug out again & it is slightly wet but not damp - how do i check if im getting spark? that pop is playing on my mind as it looked like a puff of smoke but could have been fuel backfire via the airfilter

i also wonder if the air/fuel screw is adjusted correctly - i was assured that i dont need to touch & only really need to play with the idle if required

 

[china911]

sure you have fuel going through ??? open the throttle a few times (without kick starting) ..pull hose off carby and see if full runs out..

 

[Marko R1]

sure you have fuel going through ??? open the throttle a few times (without kick starting) ..pull hose off carby and see if full runs out..

fuel is quite low & i thought that maybe i should i fill it up, i'll try that first

 

[china911]

if your plugs wet you are getting fuel , pull your plug out (leave it connected ) put up against place gap end of spark plug so it touches cylinder head.. hold with pliers so yo don't get zapped and give it a kick ..You should see spark

 

[Marko R1]

I checked spark and it's sparking.
Filled it up with fuel and it started straight away lol, rookie mistake.

Sounds smoother on idle, took it for a spin on the local trail and I was shocked...the bike has gone from what I thought was impressive to an absolute animal!!!

Power wheelie in 3rd on dirt so I tried 4th and again up she goes I was sitting on central on the bike and it just amazes me...this is exactly what I wanted.

I used to race 250 production and have had many 1000cc road bikes, stopped riding in 08 due to having kids hence I am absolutely wrapped

 

[Marko R1]

+1 Japanese PE28