Z160ho wont start

[locko90]

Is the cam chain tensioner broken? Or is the cam chain just really streched ?


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[my67xr]

Don't adjust the valve clearance's where it is now, or try starting it


In your video the engine is at tdc on the firing stroke, not the compression stroke.
Turn the flywheel over 360° and then the flywheel wont want to turn back


I reckon the top chain tension guide might be broken ?
And the chain might be stretched now too?

Did you reset the tensioner before refitting it ?
eg take the centre bolt out, push the locking tab away from the toothed tensioner pusher the push the pusher back into the tensioner housing.
When it is reset the tensioner is short, not extended

 

[locko90]

So valves are addjusted right?

And im not sure man i think the cam chain is stretched but if i can still use it or not i dont know.

Im thinking that the tentioner is causing it to be lose, not sure.
How do i get the head off so i can inspect the tentioner.

Oh and yeah i had the tentioner thing out and it was fully extened i didnt reset it just put it back in.
Didnt know how to reset.





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[Trains]

You need a new camchain. The tensioner is all the way out plus a bit.

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[locko90]

Fair enough man ill get one as soon as i can afford it. Would be awsome if i csn get this engine running!

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[locko90]

Is there a better way to get the magneto bolt off ?

I dont want the chain to crack the case where i go it jamed

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[locko90]

Would it be ok to take the head off ? I wana inspect the cam chain tensioner see if its ok.
Also wana learn more

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[my67xr]

To loosen the flywheel nut use an impact wrench, hammer and a 1/2" drive 14mm 6 point impact socket
ToolPro Impact Screwdriver Set - 7 Piece - Supercheap Auto Australia
1 2" Drive Impact Deep Socket 6pt Sizes 12 36mm | eBay

Or you can use a decent 14mm socket (6 point socket's are the best to use) and breaker bar, put the socket on the nut and hold the bar to the left side of the flywheel, now give the breaker bar a sharp crack with a hammer and the nut should come loose.
Make sure the socket is supported otherwise you might round the head of the nut

Yeah it's easy enough to take the head off.
Remove the chain tensioner from the cylinder, unhook the timing chain off the cam gear
Remove the 4 head stud nut's and washer's, remove the 2x 8mm headed bolt's to the right inside the head (through the cam gear cover hole)
Lift the head off.

The top timing chain guide has 1 bolt above the crank to the left holding it in the case, you have easy access to it once the stator is removed

 

[locko90]

The head is off! Piston looks allright. Goes up and down the cylinder good.

Valves seem ok there opening and closing all good. is this dirt in here?

Gasket is still intact and the bottom chain tensioner comes right out. Not sure if it should.

I had a go at getting that fly wheel nut off with a breaker bar and socket. no luck. Ill look at getting the impact driver tomorrow.

And cam chain is on the way.

Cant wait to get this engine running!

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[locko90]

I dont have fly wheel removal tool.
Is there any other way i can pull the flywheel off ?

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[my67xr]

No, all the method's i've seen other than using the correct tool will damage the crankshaft, either the bearing's will get damaged or the crankshaft itself, i've needed to have crank's realigned because people have used hammer's and lever's etc trying to get them off before
For what it's worth i'd just get one now, Jaimie at Classic Honda 50's our site sponsor sell's them, they're on special atm for $22
Classic Honda 5's Australia
Watch out with the cheaper one's like on ebay etc, they can damage flywheel thread's and or your crankshaft too
I bought a decent Motion Pro puller from the US and including delivery it was only $25 iirc, i have used it a lot of time's and it still look's and work's like new.
Before i bought mine i have paid the local motorbike shop $20 to take the nut off for me while i watched, it take's about 30 second's to do the job.
You could charge your mate's $10 a go if they need it done and it'll pay for itself in no time.

 

[locko90]

Haha seems the best/only way to go ill have to get it then.

Just impatient to wait for postage hahah

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[locko90]

Ok so everything is ordered and on the way.
Im just haveing trouble understanding how im going to get the timing correct.

My cam sprocket has 2 marks opposite each other so i dont know what one to line up at 9 o'clock.

Or are they the same and it dosent matter ?

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[my67xr]

You need to have the piston at tdc, with the flywheel timing mark lined up at 12 o'clock in the case,
then the cam will need to have both lobe's toward's the piston
So going by your pic above, the 'FL' on the cam gear will line up at about 2 o'clock when the timing mark is lined up with the marking in the head at 9 o'clock

 

[locko90]

Sorry to be a pain but how do you know both lobes are towards the piston when the 'fl' is at 2 o'clock

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[my67xr]

You were saying that the engine was at tdc on the compression stroke when you posted that pic.
So if you turn it back so that the gear marking is pointing to 9 o'clock them the FL would be at about 2 o'clock

 

[locko90]

Fair enough. But im not sure if i was right then. Im really confused about this!
How do i find out that the lobes are definitely towards the piston ?

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[my67xr]

I will get some picture's for you tomorrow and post them up

 

[locko90]

That would be awesome!!

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[my67xr]

These pic's are of a spare YX160 CRF port head i have, this is how the cam need's to be facing when you reinstall the head and timing chain etc
the first one show's the cams' intake lobe facing toward's the piston side of the head
Second pic is of the cams' exhaust lobe facing the piston side

Bottom pic- The lobe's are the 2x raised section's on the camshaft in between the bearing's.
Top 2x photo's are taken from the front of the head, with the combustion chamber/valve's at the rear (facing the piston)