Atomik Reign, Lifan 150, Big Foot questions

[user 21036]

What setting should the multimeter be on?

I can confirm i'm getting some power through it put can give you accurate info if theres a specific setting it needs to be on

 

[user 21036]

Jiggled the CDI and now i'm getting spark?
Anyway i'm happy now i've taken it for a spin and haven't had any problems

 

[user 21036]

Got the case apart today, albeit broke the gasket but i've got new ones to replace it with.
I can't see anything wrong with the clutch at the moment and none of the gears look like they've stripped teeth.


One thing I noticed was that when I push down on the kick starter The cog bends downwards with the force... I presume it wouldn't bend when you have the outer case back on because you've also got the case supporting it?


Here's some photos:



Where do I find the oil screen filter in the engine?

 

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

in your first pic, see the slot in the bottom of the case on the right hand side? the filter is in there, it just slides out

 

[user 21036]

Yeah I saw that there, Hey craig i've got the opporunity to buy a 2006 CRF250R for $1500 which needs fork seals and valve clearances done


Now I presume it probably needs more than that but it's almost too good of a deal to refuse, I'm not sure how many hours or anything it's done. If the motor blew up do you know how much i'd get for it as a roller?

 

[my67xr]

i'm not sure what a roller would be worth, but the price sounds ok.
here are some that have sold/not sold on ebay in the last few months

 

[user 21036]

Yeah, I reckon I would do the valves and clean out the carby good. Then either do the fork seals myself or get someone to do them.

I just can't tell if its a really good deal or not

 

[my67xr]

you might be able to do all 3 yourself ?
Motion PRO Sealmate Fork Seal Cleaner 1 Piece | eBay
Rhino Fork Seal Doctor Saver Cleaner KTM Sherco Beta GAS GAS BMW Triumph DR DRZ | eBay

you can even use old 35mm camera film too,
just slide the drive slots up in between the seals and fork stancions and try to drag the dirt out

 

[user 21036]

Yeah just guessing worst case scenario.
How religiously do you you need to rebuild engines?

If you don't rebuild them will/can they just seize up or something really bad happens, Or as long as you replace fluids and air filter regularly you shouldn't really have a problem?

 

[Blender]

it depends on the compression ratio, octane of fuel, how rich or lean the air/fuel mixture is, how clean the airfilter is kept, and how its treated generally.

if your running a high compression engine, higher octane fuels are a must, some people have to run octane booster too.

if a bike is run too lean or without an airfilter, fuel will burn in the combustion chamber alot hotter than usual. this can cause excess wear on piston rings, scoring your bore, and creating hotspots. if you run too rich, you can get bore washing, where all the excess fuel will start to flood your oil, thinning it out, and making an unefficient burn, which will cause you to foul plugs, and not provide adequate enough lubrication to your engines bearings. if your airfiler is not cleaned often enough, alot of the dust that its supposed to catch will get into your engine, and those particles will once again cause wear on your bore and piston rings.

 

[user 21036]

Bikes been running great and no dramas for ages. Love the feeling to go out riding peace of mind nothing will break.

Now I am better at riding, i've discovered the bike goes harder at 3/4 or so than it does at full throttle. Do I need a bigger or smaller main jet? I've got a #20 pilot jet does that mean I need to change the main jet too?

 

[Blender]

You should only have to tweak the mixture screw to suit the #20 pilot jet. It sounds like you could have a blockage in your main jet, I'd be pulling carb down and giving it all a clean.

 

[zwebx]

Yeah sounds like shes starvin a bit
Give it a clean and all that and make sure the manifolds are all straight..

 

[zwebx]

Yeah just guessing worst case scenario.
How religiously do you you need to rebuild engines?

If you don't rebuild them will/can they just seize up or something really bad happens, Or as long as you replace fluids and air filter regularly you shouldn't really have a problem?

Just do 50-100 hrs of trail riding pretty much
Then replace the piston and inspect the shiney new ss valves you just put in there..

If it needs something it needs it.
But parts are cheaper than new motors (its not a china you know) so matenence is best to be done right the 1st time and then monitered from there.
No doubt if its eg piston slapping it will crack the piston and send it to the bottom or top of your engine..

No deubt if the cranks done 300 hrs it will break or shatter the needle rollers or just have so much slop youd wished it just broke so the piston came to a stop instead of hitting the head 1 million times..



1st time do it right save up a couple weeks, or months like i am and then after that you only need to do the little things till a couple years down the track and it most likley will serve you well that whole time (Not rocket science if everythings kept in spec then it will run)

 

[my67xr]

might be worth taking the main jet nozzle out of the carby and checking that the holes across it are all open
it's the part where the main jet screws into in the bottom of the carby
looks a bit like this

 

[IAMTG]

Before you buy a bigger main jet, check the needle clip, you may be able to move the needle up to get more juice WOT. A plug chop will help determine if your lean or rich and if your fuel starving or having breathing difficulties.

The needle is in the centre of the carby slide held in by a spring clip. The needle has a circlip at the top and slots cut in the top of the needle to allow it to be relocated up or down. You should be in the middle now, giving you some tuning up or down. If your heading in the right directionbut cant adjust the needle any further, then you need to go to the next 2 sizes in main jet (either bigger or smaller depending on wether the clip is top or bottom).

 

[my67xr]

it was running fine before this problem though, i think it would just be a blockage somewhere

 

[IAMTG]

The below chart is for PWK carby's so cannot be taken verbatim for your case, but its pretty much close to the mark in concept as to what affects which part of your rev/throttle range. Either way you will need it when you get the CRF.

 

[IAMTG]

Matt can you confirm it is only a recent issue the 3/4 to WOT or is it that you are now a confident rider prepared to open it right up and have realised that there's no benefit between 3/4 and WOT ?

My67xr Im not questioning you, but more that Matts earlier statement is ambiguous. Need to clarify if its a change or a learning.

 

[user 21036]

Hey guys,

I think i've always had this problem... I never upgraded to a no. 20 jet, as when I bought it there was already a 20 in there which I replaced with a 20 again...
The original owner wouldn't have tuned it at all though.


Cleaned the carb fully no blockage at all in the main jet.
I think i'm running rich as i've got a lot blue smoke.

There is a small difference between 3/4 and WOT but if I go WOT it will cough and splutter and kind of surge throwing me back and fowarth making it hard to control


Also last time I took out the throttle cable the clip wasn't in the middle (previous owner must have moved it) it was either second last clip to the top or bottom