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got some paint also got some epoxy filler, sika or something.....
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looks like I've got some sanding to do...... :D
 
sanding rolls will just clog up like you've found out by the looks of it.

get some 80 grit freecut paper, 3m or norton, and use it on a hard sanding block
if you are carefull you might be able to file it back close with a coarse file, then finish it with sandpaper
leave enough filler to finish it off with 180 grit paper

is the black wrinkle finish ? a wet coat of paint will wrinkle up a bit more
 
those die grinder sanding rolls are the death of me :p i bought 80 of them for 8 bucks and i spend more time chaingng them than i do using them :p
I guess there not bad if you use them flat on a surface...

Maybe on one old tile or something with some 80 grit cheap rolls of sand paper and move the cover across it like lapping a head..
 
sanding rolls will just clog up like you've found out by the looks of it.

get some 80 grit freecut paper, 3m or norton, and use it on a hard sanding block
if you are carefull you might be able to file it back close with a coarse file, then finish it with sandpaper
leave enough filler to finish it off with 180 grit paper

is the black wrinkle finish ? a wet coat of paint will wrinkle up a bit more

sweet! thanks guys! the "wrinkle finish" is just the casting marks from the alloy, or the heat from the sun when i was painting it? all fixed now! I went over it again and its came out better! yeah i'll grab some 80 grit when i can!
 
got some goodies in the mail! hope i can finish up this bottom end soooooon! then get the top end refreshed!
do i have to worry about gasket sealant? also what about torquing up the bolts for the springs/clutch plate? and the outercasing? cheers
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I usually put a very light smear of silastic on my gaskets, very light I said, grrr. I hate oil leaks. I use the blue stuff cause it looks good and I had it in my garage. But you really don't have to use it if ya dont wanna. Torque for the bolts? Do them up tight but not superman tight, they are going into aluminium don't forget. I usually leave them firm, not tight, not loose. The clutch plate bolts i always worry about, so I just nip them up to seated then go 1/4 turn at most. Tiny weeny bit of loctite
 
cheers Phil!
hmmm i think Oil fliter logos are overrated.....
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hmmmm.... well my oil cooler mounts looked as if they were welded together by a blind **c*wit so i cut up a new one on the cnc plasma cutter... looks good to me!
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Time for paint!
 
I dont mind the wrinkle finish! looks good tbh!
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and as normal ive gone with blue for the oil cooler mount... looks like its black... but its the camera!!
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You cant like Crazy Cracks LOCO !!!
When that happens, it means the paint that you painted over wasn't dry enough, and the final coat of paint dried first.
As the layers below the top coat dry, they shrink back a bit, pulling in the dry top coat and making cracks.
Same principal when a pond/dam dries up
 
so thanks to the help of my67xr, again.... LOL i pulled the head off and inspected the bore, and found oil on top of the piston... so my guess is, its got a leaky valve guide....
but im happy with how the bore is... no scores or what not..
the pictures help explain this :p
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the Piston looks like it's almost dusted, bad air filter maybe ?

how are the skirts looking on the inlet/exhaust valve top/bottom of the piston
side on you should see machining marks around the piston, on a worn piston the machining marks will be smooth


take one of the clips out that holds the gudgeon pin into the piston and slide the pin out.
now take the piston off the rod, then carefully take the rings off the piston
make sure you mark which was in the top groove, middle, and the oil rings down the bottom


refit the piston into the bore, and see how much it rocks to the inlet/exhaust sides of the bore when its up near the top of the bore

you can also check how worn your rings are too, by fitting them in the bore and measure what the end gaps are
use the piston upside down to push the ring gently down the bore, make sure it is sitting square/flat by lining up the ring grooves of the piston with the top of the bore.
do it with each ring 10mm down the top of the bore
slide a feeler gauge in the end of the rings' gap to measure
 
it has a bit of play in the skirt and has a little bit of smoothness on the inlet...
but here comes the best bit...... the inlet rocker arm is knackered...
still gotta remove the retaining plate for the rockers to be removed.... lol
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well looks like im gunna try get atleast 100 bucks back...
 
how did that happen :p that sucks man.
Roller rockers time :p
Replace all the rings, seals etc at once because it sucks when you have to go back to do it all again.
 
that screw will come out, tap a sharp pointed centre punch into the screw in between the slots a couple of times,
then angle the punch and tap it around to undo it.

was there any damage to the valves ?
sit the head with the combustion chamber up and put some kero or similar in there.
if the kero leaks out quickly, it could have a bent valve

looks like the valve weren't adjusted for a long time, i can see grooves across the face where it touches/opens the valve.

that's the same thing that happened with Brentons old Z155


zac if he was to fit roller rockers, he'd need a roller cam to go with it
 
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that's the same thing that happened with Brentons old Z155


zac if he was to fit roller rockers, he'd need a roller cam to go with it
Thought roller rockers only allowed for more aggressive angles etc i thought on a stock cam it would be fine?
 
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